Storing your RV is easy (and sad). But miss these prevention steps and you may kick yourself.
Marshall and I both recently parked our RVs. They will remain parked for a few months.
(Explanation why in another upcoming post.)
Meantime, we couldn't simply park and walk away from our rigs without doing some important maintenance. Nor should you.
When you store your RV, there are things you'd better do in preparation so that it remains in good shape for your next adventure.
Don't worry, it's a pretty simple process and shouldn't take up TOO much of your time (Except for winterizing. That's a bit of a pain). That said, not doing these things can cost you big time AND money in the future!
So let's dive into the steps you'll take if you're smart.
RV Plumbing Care
If you are going to leave your rig in an area that gets below freezing, draining your lines (or winterizing them) is a MUST.
Otherwise, you will end up with sad cracked pipes and possibly even water damage (unless you plan to keep it indoors and/or plugged in with an awesome 4 seasons package).
Check your owner's manual for how to do this process. Don't have one? (Sigh)
Then here's the most thorough explanation of how to blow out your lines we have found, and know we won't can't top this explanation.
So watch this video if you don't have a manual.
You can also add RV antifreeze to winterize your pipes without blowing them out. (Do NOT use regular antifreeze!) Here's some RV antifreeze for your buying convenience.
Refer to your owner's manual for how to add antifreeze properly to your system. Different RVs have different inlets/outlets, etc.
What To Remove
You don't want to leave anything that can even be REMOTELY appealing to rodents when storing your RV. There can be things you may not think about such as toothpaste, bottles of cleaner, etc.
If the things you leave freeze (or get very hot), they may not work the way they are supposed to. Or, they can also crack their housing and cause a leak.
FOOD is an obvious one. Food WILL attract mice. Mice are THE LAST issue you want to have with your RV. They can cause devastation, spread disease, and urine, and feces all around your RV.
Take all of the food out.
Remove anything that might suffer from mold, especially if you live on the East Coast. This includes linens and clothing. The more 'airy' you make the space, the better.
Vent the RV for air circulation if you can.
House Battery Care
If your RV is plugged into shore power while stored, you can keep your house battery connected.
If not, certain items in your RV will slowly draw down your house batteries and you'll be left with a dead battery. (Unless you have an 'off' switch for your battery(ies)).
If you have anything but lithium house batteries, those batteries will likely never work well again.
For example, a wired propane detector will slowly draw them down.
You may want to connect your battery to a trickle battery charger while it's stored. You can take your RV's battery home and put it in your garage to be maintained if you please.
Before storing, open up your awning and if it's wet, dry it or allow it to dry before putting it away. This helps prevent mold from forming. Park it somewhere where you CAN open up the awning.
This way (if the awning is not covered) you can open it up and dry it out after a rain.
(CA Kelly just made this mistake. Parked it right next to Marshall's rig and now she can't open it up until it is moved. Boo... hiss!)
Motorhome Engine Preparation
If you have a motorhome, there's more to care for. You also need to see about your engine battery. Either disconnect it or put it on a trickle charger.
Add a gas stabilizer to your engine (be sure to run the engine with the stabilizer in it before storing it). This may be helpful for your generator as well.
It's still best to run the engine every couple of months or so if you can't hit the road.
UV light slowly deteriorates tires if they aren't covered. You should plan to cover all four and your spare if it's on the outside of your RV.
If your storage is under complete cover, you can get away with not covering the tires. Otherwise, you will end up having to replace them prematurely of them losing tread.
If you are parking on dirt, it's not a bad idea to place something in between the tires and the dirt. Make sure the item is flat and is larger than the footprint of the tire.
It's best to move your camper every few months to avoid flat spots on the tires.
You will obviously unload the fridge and freezer before storing your RV. Then, let the freezer defrost if it has buildup. Then towel the water out and make sure you can keep the doors open or lodge something into them so that they cannot shut.
Fail to do this and you'll have a moldy gross mess on your hands.
Use covered or, better yet, enclosed storage if you are able. Again, UV light can mean the premature death of much of your RV.
It deteriorates tires, ruins your blinds/curtains, fades your furniture, prematurely 'kills' the exterior caulking, fades your paint, etc.
Covering your camper with an enclosed building is the best bet. You have less chance of a rodent infestation with a fully enclosed space. This protects from the sun as well as rain, heat, tree sap, etc.
Then, a carport will be your next best bet. Be sure to close all your blinds/shades and such. You might even put up some Reflectix in the windows to insulate a bit and block more UV light.
Finally, you can cover it with an RV cover. Though we aren't big fans of covers. Still, many choose to protect their RVs this way.
Cover or not, try your best not to store it under any trees. Sap, bird droppings, tree litter gets everywhere, and worst of all, a falling limb can damage your unit.
Portable Heater Care
If you have any portable heaters, like a Buddy Heater or a Wave Heater, be sure to cover them to keep dust off when storing your RV.
This especially rings true with the Wave. It's a catalytic heater using a sensitive pad. If this pad gets dusty, it ruins the pad.
Leaving a Buddy uncovered can have a similarly negative effect. The dust buildup on the heater element can cause a fire hazard and the dust that lands on the heating element can clog it.
Covering portable heaters easily protects them from dust issues.
If you have one or more slides, it's a good idea to have them in when storing your RV. This protects the seals from the elements.
You'll also have less chance for leaks. Additionally, if you have slide toppers, they will be in. This way they are protected from the wind and from the sun.
Clean all the seals and lubricate your slide track and motor gear.
If you have a portable generator, OR an onboard generator, make sure to drain the lines of gasoline. Otherwise, next time you try to start it up, you're going to be disappointed.
Gas sitting in the lines will likely ruin the carburetor. If you are not planning to use it for more than a month or so, go ahead and run it dry. If you have a generator that will stop the flow of gas with the flip of a switch, let it run until it stops due to drying out.
Whatever method you use, it will save you hassle and headache when you go to start your next trip.
When storing your RV, as long as you aren't keeping your refrigerator on (which you wouldn't do during long-term storage), it's a good idea to disconnect your propane tanks.
At the very least, close the propane on/off valves so no leaks can happen.
This one is so important. NOTHING will ruin your plans to hit the road than opening up your RV to find it infested by and, likely, damaged by mice.
Cute as they are, they can destroy your trailer or motorhome quickly. They eat almost anything, and they like to chew on wires. Not to mention they leave feces and urine everywhere they go and can spread hantavirus.
To prepare your RV for storage, get underneath, and look for entry points. This is harder to do with a motorhome than with a trailer. Some trailers have a flat bottom.
This allows you to have complete visual access to any small opening or gap. These must be filled with expanding foam or you could use aluminum tape for smaller gaps.
IF you CAN'T see all the areas that could allow access, get inside your RV at night/in the dark. Light up the underneath with work lights.
Get inside without turning on the lights and inspect EVERYWHERE you can get to. Look for light. If there is even a gap the width of a few centimeters, FILL IT.
It wouldn't hurt to set some traps.
Prevention is the key to controlling rodents.
You'll have even better luck if you can keep the RV in an enclosed, rodent-proof space.
Regular Checkups After Storing Your RV
It's a VERY good idea to put your eyes on the inside of your RV regularly when storing your RV. It won't take long.
Walk in, open some cabinets, make sure there are no signs of mice, leaks or mold, a flat tire, break-ins, etc, and off you go.
Catching problems sooner than later is extremely beneficial.
However, if you DO want to keep water in your fresh tank, at least you could use a MarCELL device to keep tabs on the temperature, humidity, and to alert you if there's a water leak.
MarCELL Discount Code
Save $20 on your MarCELL device! Go to their site (here) and during checkout, enter discount code camp20
MarCELL has 'pucks' you put under your sinks or around pipes to detect a water leak.
Storing an RV is not about walking away from it after you come back from camping and not check on until your next trip.
Set it up properly, check on it frequently, and keep it as protected from the elements as possible.
RVs are fun when you're on a trip. But they do require a good amount of money (and time) to buy, maintain, and store.
Then you have to watch it for problems while stored.
Is owning an RV worth it? That's up to you to decide.
The more you use your RV, the better. Otherwise, make sure you can commit to watching it and maintaining it, and paying for storage and maintenance when you can't use it.
Author: Kelly Beasley
Kelly Beasley is co-founder of Camp Addict and loves sharing her enthusiasm for the RVing lifestyle. As a full-time RVer since May 2015, Kelly's playful writing style helps make learning about the sometimes dull subject of RV products a bit more interesting.