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The Best Trailer Jack Reviews For 2024

(Camp Addict does NOT accept payment from any company to review or endorse their products.)

An electric trailer jack very well might have saved Kelly's back from total carnage. It's one of the best upgrades she made to her travel trailer.

Obviously, trailer jacks allow you to raise and lower the front of a trailer. This lets you not only level the trailer from front to back, but it also allows you to connect and disconnect it from your tow vehicle.

An electric trailer jack makes raising and lowering the front of a heavier trailer a breeze. So, a manual trailer jack might be all you need for a lightweight trailer.

No matter what type and size of trailer you have, a trailer tongue jack is a required piece of equipment, so get the best one to fit your needs.

Read on to learn which we consider to be the best trailer jacks, both for manual and electric tongue jacks.

Trailer Jack Guide

Trailer jacks are pretty simple devices, yet there are a few things to know about them before you make a purchase. Should you go with an electric or manual trailer jack? What size rating should you get?

Learn more about trailer jacks by reading our Trailer Tongue Jack Guide.

Electric Tongue Jack Reviews

Electric trailer jacks are pretty simple devices.

Still, there are features available that will help you decide which is best for your trailer.

Below, we have narrowed down the list of electric power tongue jacks so you can easily decide which is the right product for your individual need.

All of the below reviewed electric tongue jacks fit a 2 1/4" mounting hole, which is the standard size for A-frame trailer tongues, including those found on RV travel trailers.

What Size Trailer Tongue Jack Do I Need?

The below reviewed electric trailer jacks come with weight ratings ranging from 3,650 pounds to 5,000 pounds.

Learn more about choosing the right trailer jack weight rating.

(Spoiler alert! For most 'normal' sized trailers, any of these weight ratings most likely will work.)

Best Electric Trailer Jack

Husky Brute HB3000 & Super Brute HSB5000R

Husky super brute electric trailer jack


  • 3,000 and 5,000 pound capacity
  • Ball screw design for lower battery use and superior performance
  • 18" jack leg travel with additional 6" of drop leg travel
  • 3 LED lights for easier night hitching
  • Remote control available


  • None that we can find

The Husky electric trailer jack comes in a few different size ratings with different features.

They ALL have a unique 'ball screw' design for superior performance (more efficient and uses less power than traditional jack drive mechanisms).

This means quieter operation with less strain on the electric motor.

Here we feature the Husky Brute HSB3000 (3,000-pound capability) and the Husky Super Brute HSB5000R (5,000-pound capacity) that has a remote control.

HSB5000R w/Remote

Continue Reading Husky Super Brute Electric Trailer Jack Review

Best Electric Trailer Jack Runner Up

Bulldog 4,000 Pound Electric Jack

Bulldog electric trailer tongue jack


  • 5-year limited warranty
  • 14" jack leg travel with additional 8" of drop leg travel
  • Drop leg has a simple to use plunger pin for height adjustment
  • Able to install with jack power head forward or off to either side
  • 3 LED lights for easier night hitching


  • Motor system is not as efficient as the Husky Super Brute
  • 1000lb less capacity than what is available with the Husky Super Brute

While we liked the Bulldog brand, the ball drive mechanism Husky features bumped the Bulldog powered jacks down to the runner-up spot.

It was significant enough to justify second place even though Bulldog RV tongue jack has a longer warranty than Husky.

Continue Reading Bulldog Electric Trailer Jack Review

Best Electric Tongue Jack On A Budget

Jack Quick JQ-3500 3,500 Pound Jack

Jack Quick JQ-3500 electric trailer jack


  • Good quality jack at a lower price 
  • Fits all 2.25 inch A-frames
  • 18" jack leg travel with additional 5" of drop leg travel
  • Top crank manual override


  • 3,650 pounds is the lowest rating of any of the reviewed electric trailer jacks
  • Slow operation
  • No automatic motor stop 

The Jack Quick JQ-3500 is a decent little electric trailer tongue jack.

Priced within full reach of most of us, it's a good go-to for upgrading to an electric jack.

It's perfect if you don't care about certain extra features.

Continue Reading Jack Quick JQ-3500 Electric Tongue Jack Review

Manual Trailer Jack Reviews

While an electric trailer jack is an ideal solution for many applications, there are times when it is overkill.

Some people just need a simple trailer tongue jack. Nothing fancy. Just a way to raise and lower the front of a trailer.

A manual trailer jack has a hand crank that you manually have to 'actuate' so that the tongue jack either extends or retracts.

If you don't mind putting a little work into raising or lowering your trailer, and your back doesn't give you issues, then one of the following manual trailer jacks should work for you.

There are dozens of manual trailer jacks available. 

They are very simple devices that don't cost a lot of money.

There aren't huge differences between the different available options. Therefore, we picked a light-duty and a heavy-duty manual jack option to give you an idea of what is out there.

The manual trailer jacks we chose are great choices if you wish to go the manual route.

What Size Manual Trailer Jack Do I Need?

We review a 2,000 pound capacity and a 5,000 pound capacity manual trailer jack below.

Which size might you need?

Learn more about choosing the right trailer jack weight rating.

Best 2,000 Pound Manual Trailer Jack

CURT 28204 A-Frame Jack

Curt manual trailer tongue jack


  • 2,000 pound capacity
  • 14 1/2" of vertical travel 
  • Side handle stays out of the way of other elements such as propane tanks
  • Fits standard A-frame 2 1/4" mounting hole


  • Requires elbow grease to raise and lower trailer

The Curt 23204 manual trailer tongue jack is the perfect solution for lighter weight trailers when you don't need an electric jack.

With a 2,000-pound lifting capacity, this light-duty manual trailer jack is a no-frills way to raise and lower the front of your trailer.

Continue Reading Curt 28204 A-Frame Trailer Jack Review

Best 5,000 Pound Manual Trailer Jack

Bulldog Fulton Sidewind SWL 175

Bulldog Sidewinder manual trailer tongue jack


  • 5000 pound capacity
  • 15" of vertical travel 
  • Side handle stays out of the way of other elements such as propane tanks
  • Fits standard A-frame 2 1/4" mounting hole


  • Requires elbow grease to raise and lower trailer

The Bulldog Fulton Sidewind SWL 175 offers 5000 pounds of lifting capacity in a simple, manual jack design.

If you don't mind manually cranking your heavier trailer (ugh!) then this is a great option to install as a tongue jack.

Continue Reading Bulldog Fulton Sidewind A-Frame Trailer Jack Review

Trailer Jack Feet

The part of a trailer jack that touches the ground is called the jack foot. Clever, right? However, some jacks don't come with feet.

Have no fear, you can always buy one separately. Below we present two trailer jack foot options:

  • The traditional foot that attaches with a pin.
  • An innovative foot that not only extends your existing jack's leg but automatically flips up into a stored position when you retract your jack.

Curt Trailer Jack Foot

There are several different styles of trailer jack feet on the market. You can buy a round one.

Or you can buy a square one like the Curt jack foot featured directly below.

They are simple and affordable.

There should be a hole at the bottom of the inner jack tube (the part that goes up and down to raise and lower your trailer) that the included pin can run through in order to attach the foot to the jack.

Installation is very easy.

The Curt 28272 jack foot fits a 2" diameter inner tube (standard size for a trailer jack that is 2 1/4" diameter, aka the standard sized jack).

It has a weight rating of 2,000 pounds which should be suitable for most applications.

There's not much else to it!

Curt trailer jack foot

Fastway Flip Trailer Jack Foot

Many trailer jacks don't have a drop leg that telescopes out of the lower tube.

This means you must run the jack down a long way before it touches the ground.

In certain locations, you may not be able to get level without a drop leg.

Another (horrible) option is to stack a bunch of wood or blocks so that you don't have to run the jack as far down.

But, then you have a situation where you are putting the trailer's tongue weight on an unstable pile of things.

Speaking from personal experience, bad things can happen when you do this.

The Fastway Flip trailer jack foot is an easily installed foot that will give you either a 4" or a 6" extension.

It has a unique feature in that it will automatically drop down when you are lowering your jack and it will automatically retract into a stowed position as you are running your jack up.

Either extension length fits the standard 2 1/4" tongue jack with a 2" inner tube diameter.

Both lengths have a maximum lift weight of 4,000 pounds and are suitable for trailers with tongue weights up to 1,600 pounds (4" extension version) or 1,400 pounds (6" extension version).

(How to calculate tongue weight.)


This is best for those who park in campgrounds exclusively, or always on level ground.

The Fastway Flip manual states 'Do not use to support trailer parked on grade greater than 3% (1.72°)'.

  • Download the Fastway Flip manual here (PDF).
Fastway Flip trailer jack foot
Fastway Flip trailer jack foot mounted

Fastway Flip Demo

Installing The Fastway Flip

Which Size Is Right For My Needs?

Which size extension do you need? The 4" or the 6"? If there is less than 10" from the bottom of your trailer's tongue jack to the ground (with the jack fully retracted), go with the 4" extension. If there is more than 10" here, go with the 6" extension.

4" Extension

6" Extension

Towing Organizer for Trailer Jacks

There's a pretty awesome solution to the mess that your trailer front leaves when disconnected. It is the Towing Organizer by GR Innovations.

This made in the USA organizational solution attaches around your trailer jack (either manual or electric) and gives you a place to hang all of it.

Marshalls GR Innovations towing organizer

Marshall's Towing Organizer

It makes everything neat and organized. Marshall uses this on his jack. 

The Towing Organizer comes in either plastic or aluminum (anodized clear or black) and fits trailer jacks with a diameter of 2 1/4 inches (the standard sized jack diameter.

Spacers to fit smaller diameter jacks are available directly from GR Innovations.

All three material choices come as a kit that also includes a 7-pin plug cover that keeps the end of your electrical connector clean and protected.

The plastic version of the Towing Organizer is available without the plug cover if you don't have a 7-pin connector.

GR Innovations supplied Camp Addict with a clear anodized version of the Towing Organizer for testing purposes.

Marshall has been very happily using it for several years now (Since 2018?).

We highly recommend this great product if you want to keep your chains and harness off the ground.

Kelly cares zero If her chains etc are on the ground, but Marshall can't stand it, LOL. 

GR Innovations towing organizer kit plastic

Plastic (with plug cover)

Plastic (WITHOUT plug cover)

GR Innovations towing organizer kit aluminum

Aluminum (with plug cover)

GR Innovations towing organizer kit black aluminum

Black Aluminum (with cover)


We highly recommend getting an electric trailer jack. Marshall has always had one on his Lance.

Kelly got our #1 recommended Husky electric jack after almost three years living with a manual jack. She couldn't be happier with it.

For Kelly, it was one of those "Why didn't I do this a long time ago" reactions.

A manual jack is fine, too. It just depends on what your needs are or aren't.

If you only camp a couple of times a year, you may not care about having an electric jack.

If you have a small boat trailer or a super light trailer and no load distribution hitch, a manual jack might be just fine.

Just get the RV tongue jack that suits you the best. After all, it's great that you have a trailer, right?

It's either a toy or it's your home. Both are good things.

Camp On, Addicts!

Kelly Headshot
Kelly Beasley

He-llllo. I'm the co-founder of Camp Addict, which my biz partner and I launched in 2017. I frigging love the RVing lifestyle but in December of 2020, I converted to part-time RV life. Heck, I lived in my travel trailer for over 5.5 years, STRICTLY boondocking for pretty much all of it. Boondocking is a GREAT way to live, but it's not easy. Anyway, I'm passionate about animals, can't stand campgrounds, I hardly ever cook, and I love a good dance party. Currently, I can be found plotting and scheming whether or not to start collecting farm animals (or plotting my next RV trip!) at my beautiful new 'ranch' named 'Hotel Kellyfornia', in Southern Arizona.

Marshall Headshot
Marshall Wendler

Camp Addict co-founder Marshall Wendler brings his technical expertise to help explain RV products in an easy to understand fashion. Full-time RVing from April 2014 - December 2020 (now RVing about 50% of the time), Marshall loves sharing his knowledge of the RV lifestyle. Marshall spends the majority of his RVing life boondocking. He is the part of Camp Addict that knows 'all the things'. He's good at sharing his technical knowledge so you can benefit. 

  • Nothing but problems with my Husky…and the company does not have any parts to fix the problem…said they will send a new Jack if under warranty but will have none in stock until October. Does not help when you are on the road for 4 months.

    • Hi Terry,

      Sorry to hear about your problems with your Husky jack! Kelly’s has worked great for a few years now with no hiccups. Despite her not treating it well (yes, she tends to be VERY hard on certain equipment).

      What kind of problems are you having?

      Ugh, this stinks about the jacks being out of stock. That is very much the case with so many items right now (not just RV-related).

  • Are the three power jacks the only ones you tested? I’ve been considering a Barker jack when I need to replace mine. As near as I can tell, the Husky is designed and engineered in the US but assembled in China. The Barker series uses the same ball screw design, has the same travel limit switch, and is made in the USA. I’d like to know your thoughts on this particular jack.

    • Hi Ray,

      Thanks for checking out Camp Addict!

      Only the Barker Deluxe Hi-Power 3500 Jack uses the ball screw drive. The other two options don’t.

      The Husky’s have a drop-foot, which the Barker doesn’t. That can be a time saver, and more importantly, it allows use on trailers that are higher off the ground.

      But if you want a made in the USA option with the ball screw drive, the Deluxe Hi-Power 3500 Jack is definitely worth looking at (assuming you don’t need the drop foot).

    • I have had two Barker jacks ugh. I had nothing but trouble with the switch that raises and lowers the jack. They just burn out the contacts inside. The switches are not rated for D.C. current at 12 volts so poof their toast. Not fun turning the hand crank to lower the hitch in the rain, I am in Oregon. Stay clear of Barker, maybe they have a better switch now, who knows.

  • So, what if your trailer is light enough and came with a manual jack and swivel wheel, but you want an electric jack and still want the swivel wheel? Is a ‘hybrid’ available? Can the wheel be adapted to an electric jack? Thanks!

    • Hi Chris,

      While I’ve never seen this type of setup before (most electric jacks are installed on heavy trailer that you won’t be moving by hand, whereas a light trailer has a manual jack for cost and weight savings reasons), a quick look shows that Curt makes a wheel that may work. There probably are other options out there as well.

      No clue what the long term durability of such a setup would be. But may be worth giving it a try if you really need an electric jack on a lightweight trailer that normally would be just fine with a manual jack.

      • Thanks I’ll check it out. Our new rockwood high wall A Frame hard side pop up camper came with the electric jack added as an option, stock is the wheeled version. Heavy enough for the power jack, but wouldn’t mind being able to move it a little either.

        • You can Google “trailer tongue jack swivel wheel” and see what’s available. Typically I’ve only seen swivel wheels on manual tongue jacks as only light weight trailers can be pushed around (and thus could use a swivel wheel). Lightweight trailers typically come with manual jacks.

          Not sure what exactly you are looking for, but hopefully you can find something that will fit your needs.

  • Am I the only one who disconnects safety chains last if I’m not positive the trailer is perfectly level or well chocked? Has anyone else almost had a trailer drag them into a river after disconnecting the ball? Asking for a friend… :^)

    • Hi Barry,

      Drag them into a river??? LOL!!! That made me laugh!

      I am super nervous EVERY time I disconnect. It seems like my trailer always moves some, even when chocked. I had NOT thought about not disconnecting the chains until I was sure I was not in the river. Thank you so much for this idea! DUH!

      Why didn’t I think of this?? ????

      Great suggestion, I am going to use it. So thank you very much for likely making my every disconnection less stressful!

    • You are not alone my incident was similar but different. It was a dark and stormy night. I needed to retrieve my 1985 Airstream from a strange location for me, don’t ask why. As I backed the truck up to hitch up and taking care to line up carefully with the hitch I heard the tap of connection. Then the sound of “OH shite” filled my ears as the trainer was moving down a slight slope due to the crappy yellow chocks sinking into the soft ground. Another “ &=$##=“ could be heard as my moving trailer gained speed then met up with a sawed off large limb of an apple tree, arresting the runaway, but only after it had opened up the trailer top. NEVER. EVER TRY TO HOOK UP WITHOUT (aha!) chains first! Or you, too, may be awarded the prestigious D.S. award! Thank Goodness for Agreed Value Insurance.

      • NOOOOOOOO, not they flimsy yellow chocks!!! Yeah, I got rid of those early on after pulling away, right over them with little to no resistance, lol. One must use the big black chocks (listed on our chocks page, naturally, lol) that are available. I’m guessing you do now.

        And I also keep my chains connected now if I am even a little off level. Which, usually I am since I am always boondocking.

        Sounds like your poor Airstream was totaled. And yes, thank god for insurance that WORKS!

        Thank you for sharing.

  • On the Brute 4500 there were no cons. I purchased this jack recently and after installing my battery was dead after sitting for a couple months. When I connected the new battery I noticed a spark at the terminal. The winch and light were off. I contacted the company and they told me I had to disconnect the battery if the winch was not to be used for more than 2 days. It should not be normal for the motor to bleed thorough, but, this is the way it is designed. I have never had to disconnect my battery from any other item I have installed. I can provided their email to me stating the above if needed.

    • Hi Harry,

      Sorry to hear that your rig’s battery was dead after sitting for a couple of months. However, I am not surprised to hear this. There are many systems in an RV that cause parasitic drain on your RV’s house batteries – not just the electric tongue jack.

      Connecting the negative terminal to your rig’s battery (positive first, then negative) usually results in a small spark. Always has for me whether it’s an RV battery or a vehicle battery.

      When you are storing your RV for a period of time and don’t have a solar panel (assuming your rig is stored outside, uncovered) or it’s not plugged into shore power, you are going to want to disconnect the house battery(s). This is done either via the battery disconnect switch (if your RV has one), or by disconnecting the house battery negative battery lead.

      My Lance 1995 owner’s manual states the following:

      “When you store your trailer for a week or more be sure to disconnect the battery(s). Electronic tuning radios, the propane detector, and the CO detector all draw a small amount of current when the battery is connected. Even disconnected batteries will naturally ‘self-discharge’ about 1% of capacity per day. If you intend to store your trailer for any length of time, remove your battery(s). Store it in a cool, dry place and recharge every month. Batteries will discharge on their own.”

      I hope that helps prevent future battery discharge issues. Thank you for the comment and Camp On!

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