Best Weight Distribution Hitches for 2020

Weight distribution trailer hitches are typically not well understood by consumers. 

The basic thing to understand is that the proper weight distribution hitch can inherently help to prevent sway and will give you the most control over your steering and braking.

(We will later explain how a weight distribution trailer hitch helps prevent sway.)

Let us clarify: NOT all weight distribution hitches also have sway control. Yes, SOME do have sway control included (including the ones we recommend below). 

How you pack your trailer also has a lot to do with sway issues. We will get to that and more as you read on.

Weight distribution hitches (also known as a WDH) are made for trailers of all types... horse trailers, travel trailers, boat trailers, etc. Their job is to keep your tow vehicle and trailer level. Why is this important? 

You need to keep the weight on all of the axles of your tow vehicle distributed evenly. Same as they would be if there were no trailer attached.

If you DON'T use a weight distribution hitch, you risk negatively altering the performance of your tow vehicle's steering and braking.

Why so?

Check out the photos below. Notice how the first photo shows the tow vehicle squatting down, unloading the front axle of the Jeep? That's really bad. 

As you can see, weighing down the back of your tow vehicle will cause the front end to rise up. Your steering is controlled from your front end.

The most effective portion of your brakes are in your front end. If your vehicle's front end doesn't have its usual contact with the pavement, well, duh. Things can go bad quickly.

Your braking distance will be longer. You may not be able to steer as effectively. None of these bode well for you on the road with thousands of pounds pushing behind you.

Here's a good visual video to further help you understand why a weight distribution hitch is helpful with control and braking.​

Weight distribution hitches come with two ratings: tongue weight and maximum trailer weight. 

The hitch weight ratings for trailer and tongue weight should be above what your trailer weighs as you have it normally loaded. (But not by too much.)

You should try to match the weight distribution hitch rating as close to your trailer's weight as possible and not go over by too wide of a margin.

Weight distribution hitches typically use metal 'spring arms' to distribute the trailer tongue weight from the rear axle of the tow vehicle to the front axle. (There is an exception- the Andersen WDH uses chains for the 'arm'.)

Many WDH's use vertical metal brackets to connect the arms to the trailer. Others make their 'brackets' out of vertical chains. (Seen in second photo below)

Spring ​Arms:

Weight distribution hitches are available with two styles of spring arms: Trunnion or round bar. (Except for the Andersen, which replaces the metal arm with a chain)

Trunnion: Trunnion arms come straight back from the hitch head which gives them better ground clearance compared to a round bar setup.​

Round Bar: These arms connect underneath the hitch head and curve back until they are parallel to the ground. 

You will have to have certain parts before you can tow your rig with or without a weight distribution hitch:

1. Your tow vehicle WITH a hitch receiver (DUR!)

2. Your trailer (DOUBLE duh...)

3. A trailer hitch for your vehicle (this will come with a weight distribution kit)

4. The hitch ball (round thinggy that the trailer attaches to) sized properly to fit your trailer's coupler

5. Coupler (the part on your trailer that goes onto the ball - this will be part of your trailer's frame)

6. Safety chains

7. ​Trailer wire harness for lights/brakes and a receptacle on your tow vehicle to plug your trailer's wiring into

8. Breakaway Cable. This engages your trailer brakes in the event your trailer is disconnected from your tow vehicle. Connect ONLY to the tow vehicle itself, never to the receiver connected to the tow vehicle!

Each of these items is necessary to safely pull a trailer. ​

Dangit- something else we have to know about? Yerp. Not all trailer hitch receivers are alike. Be very aware- they can vary in the amount of trailer weight they can handle.

Trailer hitch receivers (the part of your tow vehicle that 'accepts' the trailer hitch) come in different weight classes, between 1 and 5.

Your vehicle's owners manual will tell you what class receiver it comes equipped with and/or the weight it's able to tow.

Below is an infographic (provided by USA Cargo Trailer Sales) that shows the five different trailer hitch receiver classes and a brief explanation of each.

(Scroll infographic to read in its entirety.)

Typically, you will not need a weight distribution hitch with a Class 1 or 2 trailer hitch as you will be towing a very light trailer.

Most of the time travel trailers that require a Class 3, 4, or 5 hitch will need a weight distribution hitch.

Always consult your tow vehicle's owner manual to see if there are any specific recommendations about weight distribution hitch use directly from the tow vehicle manufacturer.

OK, now you know which class receiver you have, or which one you need for the trailer you are looking at towing. Let's move on to your vehicle's towing capacity.

Boy oh boy, we get it. MORE stuff to know! Yes, it's all important, so let's continue on. You've got this! We are going to walk you through it. 

Your tow vehicle is 'rated' to tow and to carry only a certain amount of weight. No, your Ford Ranger CANNOT pull that 30' travel trailer you have been eyeballing.

Why? Well, it should be obvious, but it's not rated to pull 9,800 pounds.

Your trailer will weigh differently depending on whether it is empty, or full of your stuff- personal items, food, water, portable heater, propane, etc.

Therefore, you have to know what your trailer weighs when it's loaded versus when it's unloaded (the amount the manufacturer claims your rig weighed when it left the factory).

Having an accurate weight ensures that your trailer isn't loaded above what its maximum weight rating is, and that your tow vehicle has enough towing capability to safely pull your trailer.

It also will tell you what the weight rating your weight distribution hitch needs to be.

It's pretty important to weigh your trailer. Actually, it's vital you know how much your trailer weighs!

You need to know how much your travel trailer TRULY weighs when loaded for a typical trip. This includes cargo, propane, and water.

This is because every weight distribution hitch is rated for a certain trailer weight. You don't want to get a hitch rated too heavy or too light, so you need to know your travel trailer weight and your tongue weight.

Yo- You're gonna need a scale to get a weight. How else do you expect to weigh your trailer? 

Where on earth can you find a scale big enough to weigh your travel trailer?

There are commercial scales at some truck stops such as Love's and Flying J (CAT scales are a common 'brand'), as well as at some highway weigh stations.

It may be prudent to call ahead and make sure they allow RVs to be weighed. There is usually a fee involved.

Again, there are two weights you will want to get:

1. Trailer tongue weight

2. Trailer gross weight

Once you have located a commercial scale​ and verified they will let you weigh your RV, it's time to get busy!

​Depending on if you have a weight ​distributing hitch setup or if you are looking to only to figure out your trailer tongue weight, you will choose one of the two methods to way to your setup:

Figuring Out Tongue Weight Only

You will have to do two separate weighings. One with the trailer connected to your tow vehicle and one with just the tow vehicle (trailer not connected).

For the first weighing you will need to press the call button and tell the clerk that this is your first weigh. They may ask you for your truck number. Just tell them that you are an RV.

When you are taking your second weighing, you will need to be very clear that this is a re-weigh. If not, you may be charged the full price for the second weighing (re-weighs are usually cheaper).

Weigh as follows​:

1. Weigh your tow vehicle with the trailer attached. Position your setup so that the trailer axle(s) are on one weighing 'pad' and your tow vehicle's axles are on another weighing 'pad'. This will give you two separate weights on the printout you will get at the end. When checking tongue weight only, you don't care about the trailer weight number - just the tow vehicle's weight. This is weight A.
2. Drive off the scale and detach your trailer from your tow vehicle. Drive JUST the tow vehicle back onto the scale, making sure it's on just one weighing 'pad'. (Tell the scale operator this is a 're-weigh' so you don't get charged the full amount for a second weighing.) This is weight B.
3. Go collect your weighing slips from the scale operator (you will be getting two slips). It's time to do math! Subtract weight B (tow vehicle without trailer attached) from weight A (tow vehicle with trailer attached) to get the tongue weight. Weight A - Weight B = tongue weight. It's really that simple!

Figuring Out Tongue Weight AND How Well Your Weight Distribution Hitch Is Doing Its Job

Figuring out how well your weight distribution hitch is distributing weight, as well as what your trailer tongue weight is, can be a bit more involved than getting only your tongue weight.

 Actually it's not very hard, but requires three weighings instead of just two when only figuring out tongue weight.

You will have to do ​three separate weighings. One with the trailer connected and weight ​distribution engaged (so weight is being transferred to your tow vehicle's front axle).

One with the trailer connected and weight distribution disengaged (no transfer of weight to the tow vehicle's front axle). And finally you will be weighing your tow vehicle by itself (trailer not hooked up).

For the first weighing you will need to press the call button and tell the clerk that this is your first weigh. They may ask you for your truck number. Just tell them you are an RV.

When you are taking your second and third weighing, you will need to be very clear that this is a re-weigh. If not, you may be charged the full price for the second and third weighing (re-weighs are usually cheaper).

Weigh as follows:

1. Weigh your tow vehicle with the trailer attached and the weight distribution bars/ mechanism engaged. Each axle will need to be weighed individually. You will weigh the trailer axle(s) on one 'pad' of the commercial scale, the rear axle of the tow vehicle on another 'pad', and the front axle on a third 'pad'.​ See the pictures and the video below to see how this is done. This will give you three separate weights on the printout you get when you are done weighing.
2. WITHOUT moving your tow vehicle and trailer, disconnect the weight distribution bars/ mechanism. Take the second weighing. (Tell the scale operator this is a 're-weigh' so you don't get charged the full amount for a second weighing.) You will get another three separate weights on the printout you get when done.
   
3. Drive off the scale and detach your trailer from your tow vehicle. Drive JUST the tow vehicle back onto the scale, making sure ​the front and rear axles are on separate weighing 'pad', just like they were for the first two weighings. (Tell the scale operator this is a 're-weigh' so you don't get charged the full amount for a second weighing.) This will give you ​a set of ​two weights on the printouts you will collect.
4. Go collect your weighing slips from the scale operator (you will be getting three slips). Make sure you make notes on each of the three weigh slips which weighing they represent, so you know which is the one with the weight distribution bars connected, disconnected, and the tow vehicle by itself.

It's time to enter all of these weights into the Google Sheets spreadsheet that we've created for you.

For this, you will need:

The above chart pretty well explains how to set up your scale system. You can view the video directly below to see this process demonstrated.

The main constant is that you must put the tongue 1 foot away from the end that doesn't have the scale. The other side can be 2, 3, or even 4 feet away from the tongue.

Keep it at a 2 foot minimum. The spacing you choose determines how you do your math.

If you use the above scenario, you are using a 2 foot scale-tongue gap and a 1 foot block-tongue gap. Therefore, you have a 2:1 ratio. This means that the scale will only support 1/3 of the tongue weight.

In our example where you are using spacing of 2 feet and 1 foot, you add the two distances together, which is three. This is your multiplier.

Your math will be to multiply what the scale says by three. For example, if the scale says 220, then 220 x 3 = 660. Therefore your tongue weight is 660 pounds.

Say you use three feet in between the tongue and the scale, then you have a 3:1 ratio and will multiply the scale reading by 4 (3+1). Thankfully, it's pretty simple math.

The idea of using this method is to keep the tongue weight from being directly on the scale and breaking it. Most average sized travel trailers will have a tongue weight that is more than a typical bathroom scale can handle.

These scales are made just for this purpose but can be a little costly. They are simple small scales made to take the weight of a trailer tongue up to the number of pounds they are rated for.

To use, simply place the scale under the tongue jack while the trailer is connected to the tow vehicle.

Then disconnect the trailer as usual (be SURE you have the trailer chocked!) and then get it level from front to back. The scale will measure how much tongue weight is on your tow vehicle when connected.

The Weigh Safe Hitch is a hitch with a scale built-in. It's as simple as that. You connect the trailer to the hitch, and bammo- you have a fairly accurate trailer tongue weight showing in the trailer hitch itself.

This option will be more expensive than the other methods but is also helpful as your tongue weight can change with varying cargo, water, and propane levels.

The worst thing you can do for your setup is to add a lot of weight behind the axle (wheels) of your travel trailer. 

As a general rule, you should have 60% of your cargo weight in FRONT of the trailer axle, and 40% of the weight behind the trailer axle.

Why is this? The more weight in the back, the heavier your 'butt end' becomes (and the less weight there is on the trailer's tongue).

If the heavy butt end of your trailer gets pushed to the side a little by a sudden gust of wind, or a quick little correction, or a semi passing you, it can start to swing (sway) out of control.

This model car demonstration is the best thing we have found to help one understand what happens when you load the rear of your trailer. Watch and learn.

The below reviewed weight distribution hitches all utilize a form of sway control in order to help limit this trailer sway (swing).

However, these types of anti-sway systems are not foolproof and have limits to the amount of sway they can 'control'.

You definitely need to have your trailer's load distributed properly so that your trailer's tongue weight is within the proper range of 10-15% of the trailer's total weight.

You think the first video was a fluke? Here's another example:

As you can see, overloading the back end of your trailer is a no-no. So how do you know how much your cargo weighs? It's not like you weigh every item that goes into or out of your RV.

That would be crazy.

It's simple to find out if your travel trailer is properly balanced. You will need to know your trailer tongue weight, and the weight of your loaded trailer, to figure this out (learn how to weigh your rig).

If your cargo is loaded properly, your trailer tongue weight should be in between 10% and 15% of the total weight of your fully loaded travel trailer.

For example, if your trailer weighs 7,000 lbs fully loaded, then a tongue weight of 700 to 1050 pounds would be perfect.

Actually, 12% is best, but getting exactly 12% may be difficult. A few percentage points either way is OK.

We've narrowed down the field to the best options among the many available weight distribution hitches out there.

All of the below reviewed weight distribution hitches have sway control built-in. We feel strongly that any trailer that needs a WDH also needs sway control.

Any hitch that doesn't include sway control as a design feature was eliminated from contention.

And those add-on sway control bars? Um, yeah, not exactly the best choice, so we don't even consider any hitch that uses these as their sway control mechanism.

Through personal experience, we feel that the Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch is the weight distributing hitch that is most worthy of serious consideration.

It eliminates the hassle with the conventional spring arms.

Read on to learn more about why we picked these three WDH's for our 'best of'.