Best Weight Distribution Hitches For 2021
(Camp Addict does NOT accept payment from any company to review or endorse their products.)
You just found the ultimate guide to understanding weight distribution hitches.
Here you will learn what a weight distribution hitch is, how they work, and why you probably need one for your trailer.
Below the guide, we also share with you the hitches we believe to be the best ones for a few given situations.
We also teach you everything you need to know about those products.
(Just so you know, what you will learn on this page will help to prevent the below accident:)
Weight distribution trailer hitches are typically not well understood by consumers.
The basic thing to understand is that the proper weight distribution hitch can inherently help to prevent sway.
It will also provide you with the most control over your steering and braking.
(We will later explain how a weight distribution trailer hitch helps prevent sway.)
Let us clarify: NOT all weight distribution hitches also have sway control.
Yes, SOME do have sway control included (including the ones we recommend below).
How you pack your trailer also has a lot to do with sway issues.
We will get to that and more as you read on.
Already know all about this subject? Just looking for the reviews? Click the button below to jump down to the product reviews.
Do You Even Need a Weight Distribution Hitch?
Short answer: almost certainly.
But let's find out for sure: Are you a candidate for a weight distribution hitch?
The Ultimate Guide To Weight Distribution Hitches
Weight distribution hitches (also known as a WDH) are made for trailers of all types... horse trailers, travel trailers, boat trailers, etc.
Their job is to keep your tow vehicle and trailer level.
Why is this important?
You need to keep the weight on all of the axles of your tow vehicle distributed evenly.
Same as they would be if there were no trailer attached.
If you DON'T use a weight distribution hitch, you risk negatively altering the performance of your tow vehicle's steering and braking.
Check out the photos below.
Notice how the first photo shows the tow vehicle squatting down, unloading the front axle of the Jeep?
As you can see, weighing down the back of your tow vehicle will cause the front end to rise.
Your steering is controlled from your front end.
The most effective portion of your brakes is in your front end.
If your vehicle's front end doesn't have its usual contact with the pavement, well, duh.
Things can go bad quickly.
Your braking distance will be longer.
You may not be able to steer as effectively.
None of these bode well for you on the road with thousands of pounds pushing behind you.
Here's a good visual video to further help you understand why a weight distribution hitch is helpful with control and braking.
How Weight Distribution Affects Braking And Handling
How Does A Weight Distribution Hitch Work?
We aren't going to get into the nerdy, technical details of how a weight distribution hitch works.
Instead, we are going to give you a high-level overview of the wizardry behind these hitches.
A weight distribution hitch does just that - it distributes weight.
Haha, you feel enlightened now?
Not so much?
Fine, we'll dig deeper.
When you hook a trailer up to a tow vehicle, the forward weight of the trailer (known as the tongue weight) rests on the hitch ball that is attached to the said tow vehicle.
This means that all of the tongue weight bears down on the rear axle of the tow vehicle, causing squat (on many vehicles and dependent on the actual tongue weight).
As explained in the above section, this squat takes the weight off the front end of the tow vehicle.
This affects braking and steering.
A weight distribution hitch, through the use of spring bars (or chains in the case of an Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch), 'magically' lifts the rear of the vehicle and 'puts back' weight onto the front axle.
How is this accomplished?
The tongue weight is applying downward pressure on the hitch while the spring arms are counteracting this force via an upward pressure.
The net result is, with a properly adjusted WDH, the front axle will have pretty darn near the same weight on it with the trailer hooked up as it does without a trailer being towed.
This means that the front axle can do its job (steer and brake) even with a trailer in tow.
No squat, and properly distributed weight, makes for a safer towing environment.
Weight Distribution Hitch Ratings
Weight distribution hitches come with two ratings: tongue weight and maximum trailer weight.
The hitch weight ratings for trailer and tongue weight should be above what your trailer weighs as you have it normally loaded. (But not by too much.)
You should try to match the weight distribution hitch rating as close to your trailer's weight as possible and not go over by too wide of a margin.
Why Not Go Big With Your Weight Distribution Hitch?
Why not use the largest weight rated hitch you can get your hands on?
The heavier the hitch weight rating, the stiffer the setup is going to be.
A stiff setup is great if you have a heavy trailer, but a super-stiff set up on a light trailer is not necessarily a good thing.
It can lead to a stiffer ride, which may lead to premature wear of components.
But more likely, it may result in an uncomfortable ride for tow vehicle occupants.
Also, you will have to deal with much heavier spring bars, which are already a hassle to deal with.
This doesn't apply to the Andersen WDH as it doesn't use spring bars.
The Andersen weight rating is based on the hitch ball and receiver hitch size and one kit (of a certain ball and receiver size combination) fit a wide range of trailer weights.
It's MUCH easier to figure out what kit is right for you if you go with an Andersen WDH.
Types Of Weight Distribution Hitches
Weight distribution hitches typically use metal 'spring arms' to distribute the trailer tongue weight from the rear axle of the tow vehicle to the front axle. (There is an exception- the Andersen WDH uses chains for the 'arm'.)
Many WDH's use vertical metal brackets to connect the arms to the trailer. Others make their 'brackets' out of vertical chains. (Seen in the second photo below)
In this guide, we focus on WDH's that use vertical brackets because they are the most popular type.
Vertical brackets, as opposed to vertical chains, also offer sway control.
Vertical chain 'brackets' do not.
Sway control is important when you are towing a trailer requiring a weight distribution hitch.
Weight distribution hitches are available with two styles of spring arms:
- Round bar. (Except for the Andersen, which replaces the metal arm with a chain)
Trunnion: Trunnion arms come straight back from the hitch head which gives them better ground clearance compared to a round bar setup.
The arms are square in shape and a trunnion weight distribution hitch will typically cost more than an equivalent round bar hitch.
Round Bar: These arms connect underneath the hitch head and curve back until they are parallel to the ground.
The bent style puts them closer to the ground, sometimes causing ground clearance issues in lower trailers.
Camp Addict Kelly had this style and struggled with ground clearance issues with her hitch from day one. Keep this in mind if you have a low-riding rig.
Towing Pieces and Parts
You will have to have certain parts before you can tow your rig with or without a weight distribution hitch:
1. Your tow vehicle WITH a hitch receiver (DUR!)
2. Your trailer (DOUBLE duh...)
3. A trailer hitch for your vehicle (this will come with a weight distribution kit)
4. The hitch ball (round thinggy that the trailer attaches to) sized properly to fit your trailer's coupler
5. Coupler (the part on your trailer that goes onto the ball - this will be part of your trailer's frame)
6. Safety chains
7. Trailer wire harness for lights/brakes and a receptacle on your tow vehicle to plug your trailer's wiring into
8. Breakaway Cable. This engages your trailer brakes in the event your trailer is disconnected from your tow vehicle. Connect ONLY to the tow vehicle itself, never to the receiver connected to the tow vehicle!
Each of these items is necessary to safely pull a trailer.
Trailer Hitch Receiver 'Classes'
Dangit- something else we have to know about? Yerp. Not all trailer hitch receivers are alike. Be very aware- they can vary in the amount of trailer weight they can handle.
Trailer hitch receivers (the part of your tow vehicle that 'accepts' the trailer hitch) come in different weight classes, between 1 and 5.
Your vehicle's owner's manual will tell you what class receiver it comes equipped with and/or the weight it's able to tow.
Weight Distribution Hitch Bonus
Use of a weight distribution hitch on Class 3 through Class 5 hitch receivers may increase the maximum allowed trailer weight and/or the maximum trailer tongue weight.
Always consult your vehicle's owner manual for the maximum weights allowed for your exact vehicle.
Typically, you will not need a weight distribution hitch with a Class 1 or 2 trailer hitch as you will be towing a very light trailer.
Most of the time travel trailers that require a Class 3, 4, or 5 hitch will need a weight distribution hitch.
Always consult your tow vehicle's owner manual to see if there are any specific recommendations about weight distribution hitch use directly from the tow vehicle manufacturer.
OK, now you know which class receiver you have, or which one you need for the trailer you are looking at towing.
Let's move on to your vehicle's towing capacity.
How Much Can Your Vehicle Tow?
Boy oh boy, we get it.
MORE stuff to know!
Yes, it's all-important, so let's continue on.
You've got this!
We are going to walk you through it.
Your tow vehicle is 'rated' to tow and to carry only a certain amount of weight.
No, your Ford Ranger CANNOT pull that 30' travel trailer you have been eyeballing.
Well, it should be obvious just by looking at the two together.
But FYI, it's not rated to pull 9,800 pounds.
So how do you know, or find out, how much your vehicle CAN pull?
Your best bet is to look it up in your tow vehicle's manual.
If you don't have it, most manuals can be found on the manufacturer's website.
Or, here's a convenient guide to vehicle tow ratings from Trailer Life Magazine.
You can search your vehicle and year to find your maximum towing weight (though this weight may depend on the equipment your particular vehicle is equipped with).
Weighing Your Travel Trailer
Your trailer will weigh differently depending on whether it is empty or full of your personal items.
Therefore, you have to know what your trailer weighs when it's loaded versus when it's unloaded (the amount the manufacturer claims your rig weighed when it left the factory).
Having an accurate weight ensures that your trailer isn't loaded above what its maximum weight rating is and that your tow vehicle has enough towing capability to safely pull your trailer.
It also will tell you what the weight rating your weight distribution hitch needs to be.
It's pretty important to weigh your trailer.
Actually, it's vital you know how much your trailer weighs!
You need to know how much your travel trailer weighs when loaded for a typical trip.
This includes cargo, propane, and water.
This is because every weight distribution hitch is rated for a certain trailer weight.
You don't want to get a hitch rated too heavy or too light.
So you need to know your travel trailer weight and your tongue weight.
Yo- You're gonna need a scale to get a weight. How else do you expect to weigh your trailer?
Where on earth can you find a scale big enough to weigh your travel trailer?
There are commercial scales at some truck stops such as Love's and Flying J, as well as at some highway weigh stations.
It may be prudent to call ahead and make sure they allow RVs to be weighed.
There is usually a fee involved.
Again, there are two weights you will want to get:
1. Trailer tongue weight
2. Trailer gross weight
Trailer Tongue Weight Measurement
There are 4 ways to measure your travel trailer's tongue weight:
- Commercial scale
- Bathroom scale
- Tongue weight scale
- Weigh Safe Ball Mount.
Of these methods, only one (commercial scale) will allow you to also get the trailer gross weight, so this is the method we recommend.
Weigh With Trailer And Tow Vehicle Loaded
Anytime you weigh your rig, have it loaded just as it would be when you typically use it.
The same gear inside (personal items, food, etc), the same amount of water in the fresh tank that you have when you tow, and with full propane tanks.
This way you are getting an accurate and realistic weight.
The same holds true for your tow vehicle if you are using the commercial scale method and are weighing your tow vehicle to see how well your weight distribution hitch is setup.
It should be loaded as it normally is when you are towing your trailer.
Don't forget to include passenger weight!
Commercial Scale Method (to determine tongue weight and trailer gross weight)
Once you have located a commercial scale and verified they will let you weigh your RV, it's time to get busy!
Depending on if you have a weight distributing hitch setup or if you are looking to only to figure out your trailer tongue weight, choose one of the two methods to weigh your setup:
Figuring Out Tongue Weight Only
This requires two separate weighings.
One with the trailer connected to your tow vehicle and one with just the tow vehicle (trailer not connected).
For the first weighing, you will need to press the call button and tell the clerk that this is your first weigh.
They may ask you for your truck number.
Just tell them that you are an RV.
When you are taking your second weighing, you will need to be very clear that this is a re-weigh.
If not, you may be charged the full price for the second weighing (re-weighs are usually cheaper).
Weigh as follows:
- Weigh your tow vehicle with the trailer attached. Position your setup so that the trailer axle(s) are on one weighing 'pad' and your tow vehicle's axles are on another weighing 'pad'. This will give you two separate weights on the printout you will get at the end. When checking tongue weight only, you don't care about the trailer weight number - just the tow vehicle's weight. This is weight A.
- Drive off the scale and detach your trailer from your tow vehicle. Drive JUST the tow vehicle back onto the scale, making sure it's on just one weighing 'pad'. (Tell the scale operator this is a 're-weigh' so you don't get charged the full amount for a second weighing.) This is weight B.
- Go collect your weighing slips from the scale operator (you will be getting two slips). It's time to do the math! Subtract weight B (tow vehicle without a trailer attached) from weight A (tow vehicle with trailer attached) to get the tongue weight.
Weight A - Weight B = tongue weight. It's really that simple!
Figuring Out Tongue Weight AND How Well Your Weight Distribution Hitch Is Doing Its Job
Figuring out how well your weight distribution hitch is distributing weight, as well as what your trailer tongue weight is, can be a bit more involved than getting only your tongue weight.
It's not very hard.
It just requires three weighings instead of just two when only figuring out tongue weight.
Spreadsheet To Help Calculate Trailer Weights
We put together a Google Sheet (spreadsheet) that you can use to calculate the tongue weight and to see if your weight distributing hitch is setup properly.
You will need to enter the weights that you get when you follow the instructions in the below section. The Spreadsheet can be found here.
(You will have to log into your Google account and you will be forced to make a copy of this Sheet so you won't be 'messing' with the original.)
A big THANK YOU to our reader, 'Jim'! He emailed us letting us know he took our original version and made it MUCH more useful by adding extra 'gee-whiz' stuff. We decided it was much better and we are now using it. Thank you, Jim!
This takes three separate weighings.
- One with the trailer connected and weight distribution engaged (so weight is being transferred to your tow vehicle's front axle).
- One with the trailer connected and weight distribution disengaged (no transfer of weight to the tow vehicle's front axle).
- And finally, you will be weighing your tow vehicle by itself (trailer not hooked up).
For the first weighing, you will need to press the call button and tell the clerk that this is your first weigh.
They may ask you for your truck number.
Just tell them you are an RV.
When you are taking your second and third weighing, you will need to be very clear that this is a re-weigh.
If not, you may be charged the full price for the second and third weighing (re-weighs are usually cheaper).
Weigh as follows:
- Weigh your tow vehicle with the trailer attached and the weight distribution bars/ mechanism engaged. Each axle will need to be weighed individually. You will weigh the trailer axle(s) on one pad of the commercial scale, the rear axle of the tow vehicle on another pad, and the front axle on a third pad. See the pictures and the video below to see how this is done. This will give you three separate weights on the printout you get when you are done weighing.
- WITHOUT moving your tow vehicle and trailer, disconnect the weight distribution bars/ mechanism. Take the second weighing. (Tell the scale operator this is a 're-weigh' so you don't get charged the full amount for a second weighing.) You will get another three separate weights on the printout you get when done.
- Drive off the scale and detach your trailer from your tow vehicle. Drive JUST the tow vehicle back onto the scale, making sure the front and rear axles are on separate weighing 'pad', just like they were for the first two weighings. (Tell the scale operator this is a 're-weigh' so you don't get charged the full amount for a second weighing.) This will give you a set of two weights on the printouts you will collect.
- Go collect your weighing slips from the scale operator (you will be getting three slips). Make sure you make notes on each of the three weigh slips which weighing they represent, so you know which is the one with the weight distribution bars connected, disconnected and the tow vehicle by itself.
It's time to enter all of these weights into the Google Sheets spreadsheet that we've created for you.
How To Position A Trailer On A Commercial Scale
Make sure to enter the correct weights in the correct spots.
Then the spreadsheet will do the heavy lifting for you.
You are done!
You now know what your trailer tongue weight is.
You also know how well your weight distribution hitch is distributing the weight of the trailer to the tow vehicle's front axle.
Front Axle Weight
If your weight distribution hitch is properly set up, both of these statements should ring true:
- There should be very little difference between the front axle weight with your tow vehicle not connected to the trailer (tow vehicle weight alone) and the front axle weight with the trailer connected and the weight distribution hitch working to distribute the weight to the front axle.
- You never want the hitch to cause more weight to be put on the front axle than when the vehicle is not towing. The aim is to get the front axle weight when towing (and weight distributing hitch engaged) to be as close, without going over, to the front axle weight of the tow vehicle when the trailer isn't attached.
Bathroom Scale Method (to determine tongue weight)
For this, you will need:
- A cinder block (or block of wood) that is the same thickness/height as your scale
- Two small steel pipes
- Bathroom scale
- A piece of wood (4x4 preferably) that is at least 4 feet long
The above chart pretty well explains how to set up your scale system.
You can view the video directly below to see the process demonstrated.
The main constant is that you must put the tongue 1-foot away from the end that doesn't have the scale.
The other side can be 2, 3, or even 4 feet away from the tongue.
Keep it at a 2-foot minimum.
The spacing you choose determines how you do your math.
If you use the above scenario, you are using a 2-foot scale-tongue gap and a 1-foot block-tongue gap.
Therefore, you have a 2:1 ratio.
This means that the scale will only support 1/3 of the tongue weight.
In our example where you are using a spacing of 2 feet and 1 foot, you add the two distances together, which is three.
This is your multiplier.
Your math will be to multiply what the scale says by three.
For example, if the scale says 220, then 220 x 3 = 660.
Therefore your tongue weight is 660 pounds.
Say you use three feet in between the tongue and the scale, then you have a 3:1 ratio and will multiply the scale reading by 4 (3+1).
Thankfully, it's pretty simple math.
The idea of using this method is to keep the tongue weight from being directly on the scale and breaking it.
Most average sized travel trailers will have a tongue weight that is more than a typical bathroom scale can handle.
Measuring Tongue Weight With A Bathroom Scale
Tongue Weight Scale Method (to determine tongue weight)
These scales are made just for this purpose but can be a little costly.
They are simple small scales made to take the weight of a trailer tongue up to the number of pounds they are rated for.
To use, simply place the scale under the tongue jack while the trailer is connected to the tow vehicle.
Then disconnect the trailer as usual (be SURE you have the trailer chocked!) and then get it level from front to back.
The scale will measure how much tongue weight is on your tow vehicle when connected.
Is Your Hitch Height Way Off? No Bueno.
This applies as long as your travel trailer is properly leveled when connected to your tow vehicle.
If your trailer is very unlevel, you need to get the hitch adjusted so that tow vehicle and trailer are at least close to level for the actual tongue weight to match what the scale says.
Weigh Safe Ball Mount Method (to determine tongue weight)
The Weigh Safe Hitch is a hitch with a scale built-in.
It's as simple as that.
You connect the trailer to the hitch, and bammo.
You have a fairly accurate trailer tongue weight showing in the trailer hitch itself.
This option will be more expensive than the other methods but is also helpful as your tongue weight can change with varying cargo, water, and propane levels.
Proper Cargo Weight Distribution
The worst thing you can do for your setup is to add a lot of weight behind the axle (wheels) of your travel trailer.
As a general rule, you should have 60% of your cargo weight in FRONT of the trailer axle, and 40% of the weight behind the trailer axle.
Why is this?
The more weight in the back, the heavier your 'butt end' becomes (and the less weight there is on the trailer's tongue).
If the heavy butt end of your trailer gets pushed to the side a little by a sudden gust of wind, or a quick little correction, or a semi passing you, it can start to swing (sway) out of control.
This model car demonstration is the best thing we have found to help you understand what happens when you heavily load the rear of your trailer.
Watch and learn.
What Happens With Too Much Weight At Rear Of Trailer
The below-reviewed weight distribution hitches all utilize a form of sway control.
This helps limit this trailer sway (swing).
However, these types of anti-sway systems are not foolproof.
They have limits to the amount of sway they can help with.
You also need to have your trailer's load distributed properly so that your trailer's tongue weight is within the proper range of 10-15% of the trailer's total weight.
You think the first video was a fluke?
Here's another example:
Handling Affected By Trailer Weight Distribution
As you can see, overloading the back end of your trailer is a no-no.
So how do you know how much your cargo weighs?
It's not like you weigh every little item that goes into or out of your RV.
That would be impossible.
It's simple to find out if your travel trailer is properly balanced.
You will need to know your trailer tongue weight, and the weight of your loaded trailer to figure this out (learn how to weigh your rig).
If your cargo is loaded properly, your trailer tongue weight should be between 10% and 15% of the total weight of your fully loaded travel trailer.
For example, if your trailer weighs 7,000 lbs fully loaded, a tongue weight of 700 to 1050 pounds would be perfect.
Actually, 12% is best, but getting exactly 12% may be difficult.
A few percentage points either way is OK.
Sway Control: Built-In VS Add-On
A weight distribution hitch can either come standard with some sort of sway control built-in to the design, or it comes without any sway control and requires an optional, add-on device if you want to try to control trailer sway.
There's a big difference between these two options.
All of the weight distribution hitches reviewed on this page have sway control as part of their design.
Having an all-in-one system is the best option.
Because it won't have the limitations that an add-on sway control device has.
Also, built-in sway control is typically much more effective than using an add-on device.
A WDH with built-in sway control commonly uses friction between the spring arms and the spring arm mounting brackets that attach to the trailer frame.
Others incorporate friction points where the spring arms meet the hitch head.
The spring arms are forced down onto the brackets as they do their job distributing the weight of the trailer tongue to the front axle of the tow vehicle.
Any side-to-side movement of the trailer due to sway causes a great deal of friction between the spring arms and the brackets.
This helps limit sway.
An add-on sway control device is a friction arm that is added as an afterthought.
It attaches to one side of your weight distribution hitch, between the trailer frame and the hitch head that is mounted on your tow vehicle.
You can adjust the amount of friction the arm has by cranking down on a handle.
Add-On Sway Bar Drawbacks
There are several drawbacks to this type of system.
You must disconnect it to backup or to turn tightly.
Also, they have to be removed in slippery conditions (gravel, rain, ice, snow, sand, etc).
Oh, wait, it's raining?
Let me pull over and remove this device.
Plus, the add-on systems just don't work as well.
Progress Manufacturing claims that the built-in anti-sway capabilities of their Equal-i-zer hitch is equal to 8 add-on sway bars (you can only install one, so you can see the difference).
There you have it.
You are now fully armed to know if you need a weight distribution hitch, what kind of WDH you will want, and how to tow your travel trailer using one.
You know that you need one if the back of your tow vehicle sags, if you are towing a trailer of any appreciable size, or if your tow vehicle's manual specifically says to use one.
If you need to get a weight distribution hitch, you can find out which will work best for you by checking out the reviews directly below.
Be safe out there on the roads.
Don't pull your trailer at speeds faster than your travel trailer's tire ratings.
This is very dangerous and often leads to horrifying and unnecessary accidents due to blowouts.
And don't be crazy when you are towing.
You CANNOT drive 'normally' when you are towing a trailer.
If you don't like to follow rules, make this the one that you do.
Weight Distribution Hitch Reviews
We've narrowed down the field to the best options among the many available weight distribution hitches out there.
All of the below-reviewed weight distribution hitches have sway control built-in.
We feel strongly that any trailer that needs a WDH also needs sway control.
Any hitch that didn't include sway control as a design feature was eliminated from our review.
And those add-on sway control bars?
Um, yeah, not exactly the best choice, so we don't even consider any hitch that uses these as their sway control mechanism.
Through personal experience, we feel that the Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch is the weight distributing hitch that is most worthy of serious consideration.
It eliminates the hassle with the conventional spring arms.
Read on to learn more about why we picked these three WDH's for our 'best of'.
The Andersen 'No-Sway' Weight Distribution Hitch revolutionizes how weight distributing hitches work.
They did away with the traditional spring bar style weight distribution mechanism and replaced it with a much simpler to use chain mechanism.
This results in a much lighter, totally silent, and easier to use setup that deserves a hard look.
The above 'Pros' highlight just some of the advantages of the Andersen WDH.
Best Traditional Style Weight Distribution Hitch
Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution Hitch
The Equal-i-zer hitch is a pioneer in weight distribution hitches with sway control.
Progress Manufacturing, the maker of this WDH setup, has been in business for over 70 years.
They have been making the Equal-i-zer hitch for a long time.
In other words, they have a proven system when it comes to spring bar style weight distribution hitches.
If you are looking for a proven system that has been used by thousands of trailer owners, over countless towing miles, the Equal-i-zer WDH is definitely the right choice.
Our top choice, the Andersen WDH, offers some advantages to this spring bar system.
If you like systems that have been around for decades, the Equal-i-zer hitch is the way to go.
Best Budget Weight Distribution Hitch
Fastway e2 Weight Distribution Hitch
The Fastway e2 weight distribution hitch is manufactured by Progress Manufacturing, who also makes the Equal-i-zer WDH.
The e2 line of hitches offer similar weight distribution properties as the Equal-i-zer hitches (but not as good anti-sway capability) at a more affordable price point.
The Fastway e2 weight distribution hitches are a MUCH better option than having a simple ball mount, and are a definite step up from the chain-style weight distribution hitches (that require add-on anti-sway bars).
Hensley and ProPride Hitches
The above-reviewed weight distribution hitches use friction as a means to control trailer sway.
Friction can only do so much.
It helps control sway.
It doesn't prevent sway. (Yes, there is a difference)
If you want to truly prevent trailer sway, you need to pony up the big bucks and go with a different kind of weight distribution hitch.
There is only one type of hitch on the market that claims to truly prevent trailer sway - the Hensley Hitch.
Well, there's a catch.
A Hensley Hitch will set you back anywhere from 5 to 10 times the cost of one of the weight distribution hitches reviewed above.
These babies cost in the neighborhood of $2,500+.
Are they worth the extra cost?
Some think so.
Camp Addict Marshall has a Hensley Cub (the lighter weight version for trailers up to 6,000 pounds gross weight).
It's worked great for him for the last 6 years, but as of late, he has been yearning for something a little easier to hitch up with.
Ideally an Andersen.
Besides the extra cost, a Hensley Hitch is heavier than a traditional weight distribution hitch.
This adds weight to the trailer tongue.
Many trailers cannot afford to have this extra weight.
Hensley is the original manufacturer, while Pro Pride claims to have an updated version of the Hensley design.
Which is better?
That's up to you to decide if you wish to go the Hensley route.
Now that you have that shiny new weight distribution hitch, it's time to consider a few accessories that may make your life a little easier.
These are optional, but there might be something here that you find useful.
Hitch Receiver Lock
Your weight distribution hitch has a pin that holds the hitch in the receiver.
If you have a non-locking pin, there is nothing to prevent someone from easily stealing your hitch from your tow vehicle.
There are many hitch receiver locks on the market that provide a locking pin.
Below is just one example of this type of pin.
While this will not prevent someone who is VERY determined to have your hitch, it will slow them down and cause them to work at it.
It's worth the low price of a hitch receiver lock to give yourself a little more protection.
Hitch Ball Lubrication
Most trailer hitches need to be greased where the hitch ball meets the trailer coupler.
There is movement at this 'joint' whenever the tow vehicle and trailer are in a turn, or whenever there is an uneven road surface.
If you do not use a quality grease at this connection, you will have metal on metal contact and subsequent wear.
The two traditional style weight distribution hitches reviewed above require this type of lubrication.
The Andersen weight distribution hitch does not, which is another advantage it has over the others (no greasy hitch ball to collect dirt and get grease on you and your clothes).
Trailer Hitch Stabilizer / Anti-Rattle Device
The shank of your weight distribution most likely doesn't fit nice and snug into the receiver of your tow vehicle, which causes slight movement between the two as you tow your trailer down the road.
Over time, this slight movement will cause wear on both your WDH shank and your tow vehicle's receiver (wear shown below).
It can also cause a rattling sound that can be very annoying.
You can use a trailer hitch stabilizer (hitch tightener) to eliminate this movement and save this wear on your hitch parts.
It also eliminates the rattling/ clanking sound that this play makes.
Talk about a win-win!
The StowAway Hitch Tightener (below) is for 2" receivers.
This is what Camp Addict Co-Founder Marshall uses.
StowAway Hitch Tightener Demonstration
Safety Chain Hanger
Do your safety chains hang low?
Do they occiaionally drag on the ground?
If so, the safety chain hanger by GR Innovations (made in the USA) is something you should take a look at.
It's available in two sizes (for either a Class 3 or a Class 5 hitch - the difference being how wide of a hitch the hanger can straddle).
The safety chain hanger is a simple piece of plastic that allows you to lift up the center of a sagging safety chain.
The hanger doesn't interfere with the operation of the safety chains should something happen where the chains were needed.
The hanger would break free if the safety chains get stretched out.
GR Innovations supplied Camp Addict with both sizes of safety chain hangers so we could try them out.
Both Camp Addict co-founders Marshall and Kelly have been using them for over a year and find them to work very well to keep the chains up off the ground.
(Kelly here- I FRACKING LOVE mine!!! I don't know what it is but it's verrrrrry satisfying to me to have the chains up like that.)
It's now one of my favorite RV accessories.
For Class 3 Hitches (orange)
For Class 5 Hitches (yellow)
One of the problems of a weight distribution hitch setup that uses spring bars is what to do with the bars once you are parked.
One solution is to install the EzStoreHitch (assuming you have space on your trailer's tongue area).
The EzStoreHitch gives you a place to store the spring bars and also gives you storage for your hitch while you aren't using them.
With the hitch stored in the EzStoreHitch and locked with your locking pin, both the hitch and the spring bars are secured from theft.
EzStoreHitch Spring Bar and Hitch Storage
The HitchGrip is a lightweight tool that allows you to easily and ergonomically lift your hitch to install or remove it from your tow vehicle.
With the HitchGrip you no longer have to touch a dirty, greasy hitch.
Designed to fit hitches with 2 5/16" balls with standard-sized shanks, the HitchGrip is made from industrial strength resin and has tungsten carbide tips that 'hold' the hitch ball.
It's a pretty cool tool that makes a potentially dirty, back-breaking job a bit easier and cleaner.
HitchGrip Hitch Lifting Tool
Trailer Coupler Lock
When your trailer is not connected to your tow vehicle, though rare, it is a potential target for theft.
The entire trailer, that is.
Think about it.
Your trailer is sitting somewhere with a nice, inviting coupler waiting for a hitch ball to connect to it.
Anyone can hitch up to your trailer and drive away.
There are many trailer coupler lock solutions on the market.
Most can be easily defeated by anyone with a crowbar or a reciprocating saw.
If you are serious about locking your trailer coupler, consider a locking solution like the Coupler Vault Pro.
This lock is pretty darn hard to break into.
Most thieves are going to give up before they can tow your trailer away.
Yes, it's pricey, but your trailer is way, way more expensive.
Coupler Vault Pro by MegaHitch Lock
Your Dealer Might Be Clueless
Many people rely on their dealer to help them choose, and install, a weight distribution hitch setup.
This seems reasonable since they should know what they are doing, right?
Ha. (Don't make us laugh.)
This is a big reason why Camp Addict exists.
Lack of knowledge on the internet and MAJOR lack of knowledge by salesmen at RV dealerships.
Here is Camp Addict Co-Founder Kelly's experience with her 'knowledgeable' dealer and how they screwed up many things with her weight distribution hitch.
Yes, there are SOME very top-notch RV dealers out there who can sell you the right equipment, install it correctly, and show you how to use it.
But there are many more dealerships employing salesmen AND installers who know very little about what they are doing.
Weight distribution hitches can be confusing, yes.
You would hope a dealer that is in the business of selling travel trailers would have a clue about weight distribution hitches.
Or at least care enough to learn and/or have people on staff that have a clue.
This wasn't the case with Kelly's dealer.
"The dealer I (Kelly) purchased my travel trailer from did the installation of a Fastway e2 weight distribution hitch.
I relied on them to tell me what I needed, what weight capacity was required, and to install it for me.
I knew nothing about it so I let them do the picking for me, and they did.
(I didn't even know they came in weight capacities).
They managed to mess up all of it.
Here are some things they screwed up:
- Fastway offers weight distribution hitches with gross trailer weight ratings ranging from 4,500 pounds to 10,000 pounds. Ideally, you would select a hitch that is rated just above what your trailer's maximum weight would be. Or more correctly, how much your trailer actually weighs fully loaded. My trailer only weighs (as it is loaded the way I use it) around 4,400 pounds. It weighs 3800 dry. Yet the dealer installed the highest rated (and most expensive) hitch at 10,000 pounds . This caused my setup to ride rougher and is harder for me to deal with the oversized spring arms.
- The brackets that attach the spring arms to my trailer frame were installed upside down. This caused a gap between the bottom of the frame and the lower bracket bolt. There is supposed to be no gap here as a gap causes bowing of the brackets when you tighten the attaching bolts down to the proper torque. Guess what? Because of frequent bottoming out, both of my brackets had a very pronounced bow in them, rendering them unusable. I replaced them with a new pair from a friend who was ALSO not happy with his e2 and had purchased something else.
- The brackets themselves hang too low on my trailer frame. This is a design issue more than an installation issue. Because my trailer rides so low, it doesn't allow for sufficient clearance between the bottom of the brackets and the ground with the way the dealer installed the system. My brackets are constantly hitting the asphalt whenever I pull in/out of a driveway/gas station with any sort of slight dip. The brackets constantly hitting the ground, combined with there being a gap between the bolt and frame (as mentioned above), caused the brackets to bow. All because the dealer didn't properly install my WDH and caused my brackets to ride too low.
All of the above-mentioned issues would be eliminated if I had an Andersen weight distribution hitch installed. (UPDATE: I now do, as of August, 2018.)
It is a much better choice for my ground clearance challenged trailer I have."
Here is a video of Kelly explaining the issues she's had with her Fastway e2 hitch:
Kelly's Hitch Issues (Thank You, Dealer!)
Kelly's e2 weight distribution hitch issues caused by the installing dealer doing a hack job have been rectified.
We spent a good amount of time installing and adjusting it per the manufacturer's instructions after replacing the brackets with undamaged ones.
This resulted in better clearance between the spring bar brackets and the ground, as well as a trailer that rides level (was slightly nose down before).
Kelly still wasn't in love with the e2 system, but she was not as annoyed as she was when there were ground clearance issues.
OK, she is still not happy with it.
Her beef with it was it was a pain in the rear to attach and detach, and bottoming out caused the L brackets to come off, hence causing the bar to come off the bracket.
The brackets also bent, rendering them useless.
Also, the bolts holding the hitch to the shank often loosened, causing the ball to be too low.
All this All. The. Time.
It is an inherent problem with the style of hitch, which is why we recommend the Andersen weight distribution hitch.
(Update April 2019: I am VERY happy with my Andersen hitch. It took a little getting used to, but now I am SO much happier.)
You are new armed with knowledge on if and why you need a weight distribution hitch.
It's essential to use to keep yourself and others safe on the road.
We also let you know which hitches we believe to be the best and why.
If you have any questions, please submit them to the comments below.
Read the comments first in case your question has already been answered there.
We will reply to as many as we can.
Thank you, and Camp On, Addicts!
Kelly Beasley is co-founder of Camp Addict and loves sharing her enthusiasm for the RVing lifestyle. As a full-time RVer since May 2015, Kelly's playful writing style helps make learning about the sometimes dull subject of RV products a bit more interesting.
Camp Addict co-founder Marshall Wendler brings his technical expertise to help explain RV products in an easy to understand fashion. Full-time RVing since April 2014, Marshall loves sharing his knowledge of the RV lifestyle.