Best 12 Volt RV Water Pump in 2021
(Camp Addict does NOT accept payment from any company to review or endorse their products.)
So, you are here because your RV water pump isn't working or needs an upgrade. (I'm a genius!)
Well, please get a new one, because we want you to shower. Heh.
Indeed, you probably already know that an RV water pump pressurizes the water lines of your rig when you are not connected to a city water source.
The travel trailer or motorhome water pump brings potable water from the freshwater holding tank to the toilet, any faucet, and to the shower.
It keeps the water pumping thru the RV plumbing system so you have H2O when you need it while camping.
Undoubtedly, there will come a time when your camper fresh water pump needs replacing, or you decide to upgrade it to a higher performance model that provides more water volume to your faucets.
So, what is the best RV water pump to fit your needs?
Below you will find RV water pump reviews for three different categories of use.
Further below is information on what you need to know to install a 12v RV water pump.
A 12-volt water pump is just one part of your RV's fresh water system.
If you want to learn more about a camper water system, you can read our Guide to RV Fresh Water Systems.
Here you will learn how to get water into your unit, where to find potable water, and how to care for your plumbing system.
RV Water Pump Reviews
If you are looking for a 12-volt water pump for camping use, there are a few manufacturers to choose from.
Most produce 12v water pumps for both the recreational vehicle and the marine markets.
Almost all camper water pumps work basically the same way - they are constant speed pumps that are either on or off.
There are a few more expensive RV fresh water pumps that are variable speed, which makes for quieter operation (less pump cycling or 'hammering' of the water pipes) and a constant supply of H2O (no pulsing).
There are some brands that are more popular in the RV market, including SHURFLO (Pentair) and Aquajet (Remco).
Both manufacturers make a good quality unit and have good reliability, though how the RV manufacturer installs the water pumps can affect the longevity.
Other brands cater more towards the marine market (SEAFLO).
Continue on to read the RV water pump reviews and what we consider to be the best choices for a given category.
Pentair SHURFLO Pump 4008
- 3 GPM maximum water flow rate
- Self-priming and able to be run dry
- 55 PSI pump shut-off pressure
- 7.5 amps maximum power draw
- Built-in check valve
- Direct replacement for many existing RV pumps
- Constant speed - either on or off - which means noisier pump operation
The Shurflo Revolution 4008 is the ubiquitous 3.0 gallons per minute (GPM) pump used, well, everywhere.
It's affordable, reliable (good quality) and does a fine job of pressurizing an RV water system when you are not connected to city water.
Continue Reading Shurflo Revolution 4008 RV Water Pump Review
The Pentair SHURFLO pump line of 12-volt water pumps are very commonly used by RV manufacturers.
There are literally millions of these motorhome and travel trailer water pumps in service today.
This brand of 12-volt RV water pump has been around since 1968.
They set the standard when it comes to water pumps for RVs.
This RV pump costs well under $100 and offers the performance most standard RVs require.
As long as you don't need to have multiple faucets running at the same time, the 3.0 gallons of water per minute output of this Shurflo pump will work well for you.
If you need higher output, consider the Shurflo 4048.
With a maximum amperage draw of 7.5 amps, this RV fresh water pump needs a power circuit with a 10-amp fuse for proper protection.
This minimal power requirement means this 12-volt RV water pump can be used as a direct replacement for many existing motorhome and travel trailer water pumps without having to modify the power source.
These 12v water pumps are a 4-chamber diaphragm pump design that have the ability to self-prime.
They can do this from a distance up to 6 feet from the fresh water tank.
It has an integrated check valve that keeps city water pressure from back flowing through the water pressure pump and filling the fresh water tank (which would result in overflowing the holding tank).
Constant Speed Design
The Shurflo 4008 12-volt RV water pump is a constant speed design.
This means that the camper water pump is either on or it's off.
This results in the cycling of the pump when you have a faucet or shower at a low water flow setting, causing a higher noise level.
Though Pentair uses a bypass valve that is supposed to minimize this cycling, in reality, this RV pump cycles on and off frequently at lower water flow rates.
You can install an accumulator to reduce this if the noise and vibration bothers you.
Because this is a constant speed pump, it uses a pressure switch to turn the pump on and off as it reaches a set water pressure.
In turn, it keeps your RV water lines from bursting or the fittings from leaking.
This motorhome water pump is factory set to shut-off at 55 pounds per square inch and come back on at 40 PSI.
The pressure difference between on and off is what causes the pulsing water pressure you experience when you have your faucet or shower at a low water volume setting.
Installing an accumulator downstream in the water hose from your RV pump will help reduce this pulsing.
Bypass Valve
These camper pumps use a bypass valve to help reduce the pulsing and cycling.
Even so, you are still going to experience both which results in noise and vibrations.
The bypass valve will start opening at approximately 40 PSI, allowing water to flow from the outlet side of the Shurflo pump back to the inlet side.
This allows the pump to continue to run while maintaining water pressure without needing to cycle on and off so frequently.
The bypass valve is factory set to be fully open at 62 pounds per square inch.
Both the pressure switch and the bypass valve can be field adjusted even though they come from the factory set 'properly'.
See the Shurflo RV water pump pressure adjustment section below for more information on performing a field adjustment of the pressure setting.
- Download the Shurflo 4008 RV water pump manual here (PDF).
Shurflo Water Pump (4008) Features and Specs:
- Model: 4008-101-E65
- Voltage: 12v DC
- Electricity usage: 7.5 amps (max), ~2.2 amps @ 3.0 GPM, ~6.8 amps @ 0.5 GPM
- Power circuit: 10-amp fuse
- Flow Rate: 3 GPM (Gallons per minute)
- Operating pressures: 55 PSI shut-off, 40 PSI restart. Bypass valve starts to open at about 40 PSI and is fully opened at about 62 PSI.
- Pump type: 4-chamber diaphragm
- Inlet & outlet ports: 1/2"-14 NPSM male threads
- Integrated check valve (keeps city water pressure from going through the water pump and filling up (overflowing) the fresh water tank
- These water pumps are self priming - they can 'lift' water up to 6 feet from the source
- Able to run dry without damaging the unit
- Thermal overload protection with automatic restart (once it cools off sufficiently)
- Dimensions: 8.1" Long x 4.9" Wide x 4.4 High"
- Weight: 5 pounds
- Warranty: 2 years
Best Camper Water Pump - High Volume
- 4.0 GPM maximum water flow rate
- Self-priming and able to be run dry
- 55 PSI pump shut-off pressure
- 10 amps maximum power draw
- Built-in check valve
- Use multiple faucets at one time
- Constant speed - either on or off - which means noisier pump operation
- May require upgrading your water pump power circuit to handle higher amperage
The Shurflo 4048 is Pentair's high volume, constant speed water pump.
With an output of 4.0 gallons per minute (GPM), this 12v pump has a 33% higher flow rate than our top choice, the Shurflo 4008.
Continue Reading Shurflo 4048 12-Volt Water Pump Review
Pentair makes 12-volt RV water pumps currently and since 1968.
They allow RVers to have a reliable source of freshwater when they aren't connected to a city water supply.
The Shurflo 4048 high volume RV fresh water pump operates in an almost identical manner as the lower flow Shurflo 4008 water pump.
The main difference is that this model has a larger electric motor which allows for a higher water flow rate, which in turn requires more battery power.
Most everything else is the same between these two water pumps.
Therefore, the below review will be very similar to the 4008's review.
This pump does cost about twice what the lower water flow model, the Shurflo 4008, does.
If you need the capability to pump a higher amount of water in a given time, this model is worth the extra cost.
This water pump for RV use has a maximum output of 4.0 gallons per minute.
This allows you to use multiple water fixtures at one time without seeing a noticeable drop in water pressure.
Drawing a maximum of 10 amps of battery power, these water pumps requires a power circuit with a 15-amp fuse.
If your existing fresh water pump requires less amperage draw, make sure that your power wires are properly sized to handle the larger load (see the Shurflo 4048 manual for additional wiring size information).
With its 4-chamber diaphragm pump design, this unit is self-priming up to a distance of 6 feet from the freshwater tank.
There is an integrated check valve that prevents water from flowing backward through the pump when hooked up to a city water source.
This prevents the backfilling of the freshwater tank, which can cause overflowing.
Know that this RV fresh water pump is of constant speed design, so it is either on or off.
This on/off cycling is controlled by a pressure switch that is factory set to turn off the pump at 55 PSI (to protect the RV water lines from too high of water pressure).
The pressure switch is factory set to turn the pump back on around 40 PSI.
The difference in the on and off pressure settings is what causes the water pressure to pulsate when you set a water fixture at a low flow setting.
You can install an accumulator in the water hose after the pump to help reduce water pressure fluctuation.
This model camper water pump also has a bypass valve. It moves water from the outlet side of the pump to the inlet side.
This helps reduce pulsating and cycling (causing vibrations and noise) of the pump, but doesn't eliminate it.
The bypass valve starts to open at around 30 PSI of water pressure and is factory set to be fully open at about 62 PSI.
You can field adjust both the pressure switch and the bypass valve settings to increase or decrease the pressure at which they 'activate'.
While they both come from the factory set properly, you might find that a small amount of fine-tuning is required after you install your new pump.
See the Shurflo RV water pump pressure adjustment section below for more information on performing a field adjustment of the pressure setting.
- You can download the Shurflo 4048 manual here (PDF).
Shurflo 4048 Pump Features and Specs:
- Model: 4048-153-E75
- Includes wire mesh inlet strainer
- Voltage: 12v DC
- Energy consumption: 10 amps (max), ~2.8 amps @ 4.0 GPM, ~10 amps @ 0.18 GPM
- Power circuit: 15 amp fuse
- Flow Rate: 4.0 Gallons per minute (GPM)
- Operating pressures: 55 PSI shut-off, 40 PSI restart. Bypass valves start to open at about 30 PSI and are fully open at about 65 PSI.
- Pump type: 4-chamber diaphragm
- Inlet & outlet ports: 1/2"-14 NPSM male threads
- Integrated check valve (keeps city water pressure from going through the water pressure pump and filling up (overflowing) the freshwater tank
- Self-priming water pumps - can 'lift' water up to 6 feet from the source
- Able to run dry without damaging the unit
- Thermal overload protection with automatic restart (once it cools off sufficiently)
- Dimensions: 10.3" Long x 4.9" Wide x 4.8 High"
- Weight: 7.9 pounds
- Warranty: 2 years
Best RV Water Pump - Variable Speed
- 5.3 GPM maximum water flow rate
- Variable speed delivers smooth flow
- Self-priming and able to be run dry
- Use multiple faucets at one time
- 10 amps maximum power draw
- Made in the USA
- May require upgrading your water pump power circuit to handle higher amperage
- Higher cost
The Remco Aquajet is a variable speed RV water pump.
It is a high volume pump with an output of 5.3 gallons per minute.
It is best suited for RVs where you want to greatly reduce water pump cycling and when you want constant water pressure when using your camper water pump.
Continue Reading Remco Aquajet RV Water Pump Review
Made in the USA, the Remco Aquajet is the top choice 12v motorhome water pump, and is also compatible with travel trailers.
The Remco Aquajet is a great choice for RV owners wanting the smoothest, most residential-like water flow in their rig.
It is also the closest thing to being a quiet RV water pump that you will find.
With its variable-speed motor, it virtually eliminates the cycling on/off that a conventional constant speed RV water pump experiences (causes vibrations and an increased noise level).
It also eliminates the pulsating water pressure that is a common complaint with most RV plumbing systems.
Why This Pump Is So Quiet
Since this 12-volt water pump for RV use has an electric motor capable of variable speeds, it doesn't use a pressure switch like a constant speed pump (such as the other two pumps reviewed above).
Instead, it uses a sophisticated pressure sensor to detect drops in water pressure.
It immediately adjusts the motor speed to deliver a constant water flow/pressure.
Because of the variable speed design, this is a very quiet RV water pump. At low water flow rates (faucet opened just a tiny bit), the water pump isn't spinning very fast and is silent.
The pump motor speeds up as water demand increases.
However, because it isn't cycling on and off like a constant speed water pump, it is much quieter than the two Shurflo water pumps reviewed above.
Electrical Requirements
The Remco Aquajet uses a maximum of 10 amps of 12-volt electricity and with a flow rate of up to 5.3 gallons per minute (GPM).
This makes it considerably more powerful than a 'normal' 3 GPM, 12-volt RV water pump.
Because of this higher amperage draw, you have to make sure that the power supply wiring is properly sized for the Aquajet pump.
See the Remco Aquajet manual (PDF) for wire size information.
Other Water Pump Benefits
The Aquajet can self-prime at a distance of up to 13 feet from the freshwater tank. (More than twice what the above reviewed Shurflow water pumps can do.)
This means you have more mounting options as the pump doesn't have to be all that close to the RV's water tank.
Therefore, it's easy to install.
This RV pump can also be run dry, and will then self-prime once you put more fresh water in the tank.
There is an integrated check valve that keeps water from flowing backward through the pump into the freshwater tank when your rig is connected to a city water supply.
This keeps the freshwater tank from being filled and overflowing when connected to an external water source.
The Remco Aquajet is a powerful, high volume RV water pump.
It has a 5-chamber design, coupled with variable speed motor.
This makes it perfect for situations where multiple faucets are used at one time.
Example: Someone is taking a shower and another person is using a sink faucet.
- You can download the Remco Aquajet manual here (PDF).
- DO NOT use an accumulator tank with a Remco Aquajet variable speed water pump. It isn't necessary and will actually inhibit correct operation of the pump.
Remco Aquajet Pump Features and Specs:
- Model: 55AQUAJET-ARV
- Voltage: 12v DC
- Energy consumption: 10 amps (max), ~3.6 amps @ 5.0 GPM, ~10 amps @ 0.7 GPM
- Power circuit: 15 amp fuse
- Flow Rate: 5.3 Gallons per minute (GPM)
- Operating pressure: 60-75 PSI
- Pump type: 5-chamber diaphragm
- Inlet & outlet ports: Remco Quick Attach ports that accept a variety of hose fittings (1/2" male thread fittings included)
- Integrated check valve (keeps city water pressure from going through the water pump and filling up (overflowing) the freshwater tank
- Self-priming pump: It can 'pull' water up to 13 feet from the source
- Able to run dry without causing damage
- Thermal overload protection with automatic restart (once it cools off sufficiently)
- Dimensions: 8.9" Long x 4.8" Wide x 4.6 High"
- Weight: 8 pounds
- Made in the United States
- Warranty: 2 year
Buying A New RV Water Pump
What should you be thinking about when buying a new RV water pump?
Don't just get the first RV pump you see. There are a few things you need to consider.
Gallons Per Minute/GPM
You should know how many gallons of water per minute your pump needs to put out for your specific RV.
Check your RV owners manual for this information. Don't get one that is too powerful.
Why? The bigger and harder working a pump is, the more electricity it draws from your batteries.
PSI
It's important that you know what water pressure (PSI: pounds per square inch) is recommended for your rig so you can buy a 12-volt RV water pump that puts out the right pressure.
Though most are in the 'safe' range of 60-75 pounds per square inch.
Sizing
Consider the mount location of your current 12v RV water pump.
In RVs, every square inch of space tends to be utilized.
This means your pump is probably tucked away in an area with little or no extra room.
If your current installation is tight, you might not be able to upgrade to a larger capacity water pump as it will physically be larger.
It also isn't easy to install a new pump if the space is tight.
Check your RV owners manual for specifications on the flow rate and the maximum water pressure.
If you can't find the information, give your RV manufacturer a call (hopefully they are still in business!).
Camper Water Pump Accessories
There are travel trailer and motorhome water pump accessories available that should be considered required (strainers).
Then, there are others which you can use in the hopes of making your rig's water pump a little quieter.
RV Water Pump Strainers
If grit, dirt or other foreign material gets inside your RV pump, bad things can happen to the diaphragm (the pump mechanism).
It will wear out quicker or develop catastrophic damage and your pump will stop pumping water.
Below are two common filter strainers manufactured by Shurflo.
One has fixed fittings on both ends (NPSM threads) and one with a fixed fitting on the inlet side (NPSM threads) and a swivel nut fitting (NPT threads) on the outlet side.
The swivel nut fitting makes it easier to thread the strainer in tight places.
Both strainers have fine 50 mesh filter screens with removable housing.
This way the screens are cleaned without removing the entire assembly.
These filter strainers typically get mounted directly to the inlet size of the water pump.
NOTE: Strainer is included with the Shurflo 4048 high volume water pump.
Shurflo 255-313 (255-213) Strainer
Shurflo 255-315 (222-215) Strainer
RV Water Pump Silencing Kit
Let's face it - there is not such a thing as an absolutely quiet RV water pump.
Unless you are lucky enough to have your constant speed water pump buried far away from you, it will be heard.
Even a variable speed RV water pump will have a certain noise level unless it is well insulated from the living compartment.
This pump silencing kit has two flexible hoses that fit between the water pump and your RVs plumbing system lines.
Since the rig's water lines are normally rigid, installing a flexible water line tends to reduce the transmission of the pump's vibrations to the plumbing system (which can cause rattling and other obnoxious noises).
Water Pump Accumulator
Most 12v RV water pumps are constant speed.
This means they are either on or off. Full speed or nothing at all.
And this on/off state is controlled by pressure switches which sense the pressure in the water system lines.
At anything less than having your faucets or RV shower heads fully open, the RV fresh water pump will constantly cycle on and off, which is annoying.
Also, the on/off tends to cause vibration and increases the overall interior noise level of your rig.
One way to reduce this cycling is to install an accumulator tank (pulsation eliminator) that uses a water diaphragm inside of a pressure vessel.
The accumulator builds up an excess of water (think of it as a reserve tank) on the pressure side (outlet side) of your water pump.
This allows reserve H2O to be used instead of the pump having to cycle as much.
This can reduce pump cycling and water pressure spikes.
Below is a fairly inexpensive 24-ounce Shurflo accumulator tank.
- DO NOT use an accumulator tank with a Remco Aquajet variable speed RV water pump. It isn't necessary and will actually inhibit correct operation of the pump.
Installing A 12-Volt RV Water Pump
Motorhome and travel trailer water pumps aren't very expensive but they can be a real booger to replace.
It's not the installation process that's so difficult.
Usually, it's the placement of the darn thing. Sometimes, you have to be fairly flexible in order to get the job done!
Here's Marshall's travel trailer water pump. Look at this mess! You can't pull the stuff (ducting) in front of it out. Marshall has replaced his pump at least three times now.
Look at this giant mess. This is the only way to get to this 12v water pump without taking out the hot water heater. The black hose in front doesn't flex, UGH.
Before you start, turn your water pump switch off. This cuts the power from the RV battery.
Then depressurize the water lines by opening your faucets.
Have towels handy as water will leak out from the water hose when you disconnect the plumbing fittings.
Follow the 12v RV water pump's instructions to make sure the installation process is done correctly (duh!).
Follow the instructions, see how the prior pump was installed, and installation will be a 'breeze'.
Replacing An RV Water Pump
Adjusting a Shurflo Water Pump
- You can easily increase the water pressure output of a Shurflo water pump too much by 'playing' with the pressure adjustments, so if you don't know what you are doing, PLEASE DO NOT make any adjustments.
After installing your new pump, it may cycle too frequently or at the improper pressure.
Tweaking the bypass valve and/or the pressure switch may be required (though usually adjusting the pressure switch is all that is required).
An adjustment is needed if the pump cycles on and off too frequently, especially when a water fixture (faucet/shower) is fully opened.
Please only do it if it's completely necessary.
You have to be careful when making any adjustments as it is easy to over adjust and get yourself in trouble.
Only adjust if you know what you are doing - otherwise, leave it to the experts.
Below are the exact instructions from the Shurflo installation and operation manuals on how to adjust the bypass valve and pressure switch settings.
If your pump is cycling on and off when you have faucets or an RV shower head fully opened, then most likely ONLY the pressure switch needs a slight adjustment.
If the [pressure] switch or bypass are adjusted too much, the bypass and [pressure] switch shut-off can overlap and THE PUMP WILL NOT SHUT OFF. Screwing the [pressure] switch screw in clockwise will raise the shut-off pressure. Unscrewing the [pressure] switch screw counterclockwise will lower the pump shut-off pressure. Screwing the bypass screw in will raise the pressure at which the bypass starts and raise the full bypass pressure. Unscrewing the bypass screw counterclockwise will lower the pressure at which bypass starts and lower the full bypass pressure.
WARNING: If full bypass is reached before the [pressure switch] shut-off setting, the pump will not shut off. Full bypass pressure setting should be at least 10 PSI higher than pump shut off pressure.
NOTE: A 5/64" Allen wrench (hex key) is required to make these adjustments.
Conclusion
If you have an RV, you need a water pump.
Certainly, there are times when you are not in a campground/hooked up to a city water supply.
Without some type of pump or a city water connection, you cannot run ANY water of any sort in your rig.
For example, you decide to stop at a rest stop to feed your family. No hookups there.
Undoubtedly, you need a 12v RV water pump to wash hands, do dishes, or use the toilet.
Furthermore, being self-sufficient is one of the biggest perks of being in an RV. Having a working camper water pump helps make this possible.
The goal to RVing is to get out there and enjoy it without worrying about your RV pump.
If you have any questions, or comments about this information that Marshall and Kelly have provided for you, feel free to comment below.
We answer every good, relevant question that we can.
(Please read previous comments as we will not answer duplicate questions.)
Thank you for reading!
Kelly Beasley
He-llllo. I'm the co-founder of Camp Addict, which my biz partner and I launched in 2017. I frigging love the RVing lifestyle but in December of 2020, I converted to part-time RV life. Heck, I lived in my travel trailer for over 5.5 years, STRICTLY boondocking for pretty much all of it. Boondocking is a GREAT way to live, but it's not easy. Anyway, I'm passionate about animals, can't stand campgrounds, I hardly ever cook, and I love a good dance party. Currently, I can be found plotting and scheming whether or not to start collecting farm animals (or plotting my next RV trip!) at my beautiful new 'ranch' named 'Hotel Kellyfornia', in Southern Arizona.
Marshall Wendler
Camp Addict co-founder Marshall Wendler brings his technical expertise to help explain RV products in an easy to understand fashion. Full-time RVing from April 2014 - December 2020 (now RVing about 50% of the time), Marshall loves sharing his knowledge of the RV lifestyle. Marshall spends the majority of his RVing life boondocking. He is the part of Camp Addict that knows 'all the things'. He's good at sharing his technical knowledge so you can benefit.
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We boondock alot. I would like a quieter pump, but also would like lower amp pull. It looks like an on/off pump plus accumulator would use less amps but a variable pump (w/o accumulator) would be quieter. Would you agree?
Hi Donald,
Thanks for the comment and for checking out Camp Addict!
A variable speed pump should definitely be quieter, as it has the ability to run at less than ‘full on’ if the water demand isn’t that great.
As far as the bit about a normal (either full on or off) pump with accumulator drawing less amps than without an accumulator… I’m not really sure on that. In theory, the pump itself will be running overall the same amount. It just does it differently.
What I mean is that instead of coming on in ‘pulses’ as you use water (when you don’t have an accumulator), it will come on for a longer continual period as the accumulator gets recharged. But since ultimately the same amount of water is being drawn from your fresh water tank, I don’t know that there is any appreciable amperage savings one way or the other.
Considering that in the grand scheme of things, a water pump isn’t being used that much, it really isn’t a huge amperage draw in total. Especially when you compare it to other things like overhead roof fans, a propane furnace, charging computers, using an inverter to run a TV, etc. So I’m not sure you need to worry about figuring out which water pump setup will pull less amps. Instead, go with what should be quieter (if you want to spring for the extra for a variable speed pump – if not, try an accumulator and see if that helps with the overall noise).
Happy boondocking!
Please advice: I want to use one of these 12 v. pumps to circulate water between a simple black pipe water heater on my roof into my hot tub 18 feet below. Close loop kind of setup. My thought is that when the sun is in the sky it will generate power to run the pump and circulate the water between the solar water heater and the tub with the regular electric water heater / filter already installed as a backup. Would that work? any experience there?
Hi Michael,
We only have experience using RV water pumps in RVs. No experience using them in other applications.
But a couple things to keep in mind. These pumps are only designed for intermittent duty (not being ‘on’ constantly). With the setup you are thinking of, it sounds like the pump would need to be on all the time. Not the right application for an RV water pump.
Also, RV water pumps like to be fairly close to the source of water (fresh water tank). The installation manual states the pump should be within 6 feet of the water tank. They will draw from a farther distance, but will work harder and make more noise. I’m not sure how well they will perform trying to move water 18 feet vertically. Never mind issue #1 above.
I think you should be looking for something other than an RV water pump for your particular application.
I’m seeing that sur flow is pretty popular. This may be a dumb question but I need a water pump replacement but this plugs into the wall with a three prong and the sureflo has to two wires. How do I go about powering this pump with this type of connection?
Hi Robert,
The water pumps shown on this page are designed for RV use (or other 12-volt applications). They require a 12-volt power supply, which is two wires.
If you have a water pump that plugs into the wall, then it sounds like that is a 120-volt application and you will need to get a water pump specifically designed for this. We don’t review 120-volt water pumps.
It shouldn’t be too hard to find what you are looking for. Best of luck!
Several of the Amazon reviews state that it blew their plumbing apart with high pressure? Do you have any thoughts on that?
Hi Chis,
Which RV water pump(s) in particular are the ones with these reviews?
Without knowing the exact situation, I have no clue what is going on. Did the people adjust the pressure settings on the pumps?
I have never heard of an RV water pump blowing an RV’s plumbing apart, and I know a lot of people who RV full-time. Just not a rampant problem.
And I find it hard to believe that an RV water pump set properly from the factory would do this.
For example, a Shurflo 4048’s pressure switch is set to shut off the pump at 55 psi. Which is below the pressure of some (most?) city water systems.
The 4048’s manual states the following:
“The by-pass is a spring loaded diaphragm that opens up allowing water from the discharge side back to the inlet side. The by-pass is set to begin opening at about 30 psi and creating full by-pass at about 65 psi. The pressure switch on the pump is set to shut off at 55 psi. If the switch or by-pass are adjusted too much, the by-pass and switch shut-off can overlap and THE PUMP WILL NOT SHUT OFF.”
This is why one shouldn’t adjust the pressure settings unless they know what they are doing (or are able to follow instructions and double-check things).
Thanks so much for this post! Did you install an on off switch to help conserve energy when you’re not using the sink? We will not be installing a toilet, so water will just be for the sink. Also, did you install a water filter on your water system?
Thanks!
Hi Keely,
You’re welcome! No, there’s no need for an on/off switch when you’re not using the sink. The pump will not run as long as the pressure doesn’t drop in the tank. The amount of electricity it uses to monitor is negligible.
I have not installed a water filtration system. Some people have. You can filter at the inlet hose and/or get a filter for your drinking water if you don’t want to deal with a water filtration system install. Or, install a filtration system! I’m just not the type to go that far. : )
My husband replaced our water heater pump on our 5th wheel, everything on the outside is working and there hot water in the tank but no hot water coming inside the faucet and shower.what could be the problem?
Hi Karen,
What do you mean by “water heater pump”? Are you saying that the main water pump was replaced? I’m not aware of any RV having a separate pump for the water heater.
Also, what do you mean by “everything on the outside is working”? What on the outside is working that is related to hot water?
Did the water heater bypass valve (on my water heater, it’s located right at the water lines by the water heater itself) get turned to the ‘bypass’ position?
How do you know there is hot water in the tank?
So. Many. Questions. 🙂
I installed a pump in a fire apparatus and I’m having a problem with the water pulsation out of the faucet. What can I do?
Hi Brian,
I have no idea what a ‘fire apparatus’ is. Is this an RV application?
Just bought my first RV a week ago. It’s a junker, Falcon Sport series 19 (ever hear of it?). No voltage at the Shurflo 8005-292-139 water pump, so I decided to remove the pump to test it. The pump indeed works great, but the contacts on the pressure switch are loose inside the housing (poor design and manufacture). Consequently, operation of the pump would be unreliable. So I decided to purchase a replacement pressure switch assembly. At an outrageous $37 that’s more than half the price of a new pump. Just not worth it. I’m looking for a separate pressure switch that I could mount in the water line. Have you or other people done this? Do you have a recommendation for a specific switch to use?
Hey Vanamee,
I have indeed heard of that brand trailer. You will notice that it did not make our best RV brands list.
I assume that this is a new-to-you trailer as opposed to being a brand new trailer. Otherwise, the water pump would be under warranty and there would be no sense in messing with it.
Unfortunately, RV water pumps are a disposable item. If something goes wrong, you just replace rather than try and fix. As you have found out, replacement parts are generally cost prohibitive, considering one of the recommended pumps above costs well under $100.
I don’t know how you would put in a separate switch. Sounds like a complete pain to me, and considering the cost of a new one, I don’t think it’s worth one’s time to track down how to do this, modify your plumbing system to allow for a separate switch, hope that the switch actually works, etc, etc, etc.
Best of luck with your ‘new’ trailer! I hope that the water pump situation gets sorted out.
Very complete article, thanks. A couple of questions, I am replacing the pump in my 2005 Fleetwood Bounder. I will be using the Shurflo 4008-101-E65. My unit has a whole house filter so I would assume I don’t need the strainer, is that correct? Also, old school me wants to add an accumulator. I’ve heard this pump doesn’t need one but would there be any advantages at all or just a waste of money.
Glad you found this page useful, Norm!
Pentair/Shurflo says the following in the Shurflo 4008 manual “Pump must use an adequate 50-mesh strainer [such as SHURFLO 255 series strainers].” It doesn’t let you off the hook even if you are using a whole-house filtration system. So it’s your call.
Shurflo says you don’t need an accumulator, but I’m here to tell you an accumulator will help. Greatly. I use the 4008 and about a year ago put in an accumulator. World of difference! Go with the accumulator, IMHO.
Hope that helps! Thanks for the question, and Camp On!
Thanks for the fast response. Your answers are great. Both items are not high dollar, so why not. Glad I found Camp Addict, I will put your in my favorites and visit often.
You are most welcome, Norm. And THANK YOU for your kind words. Kelly and I are happy you found us too.
One more thing about the accumulator – I didn’t install the Shurflo one (the 24 ounce one). Instead I installed a 2 gallon (no-name) version (that required some plumbing into the system, but overall not rocket science). It gives me a decent (but no where near 2 gallons) of water before having the water pump kick back on to refill it. If you go with a 24 ouncer, I’m sure it’s fine. It’ll smooth out the pulsing. You just won’t get a lot of water out of it before the pump kicks back in.
My water pump quit pumping. The pump runs but no water. The pump has easy access in the BR and on several occasions I have jiggled wires and hoses and after several minutes the pump starts pumping and will continue to work until i shut it off. Then it reverts to running but not pumping. It seems there may be a priming issue or an air leak. I have no idea how to go about looking for an air leak. If i install a new pump I’m afraid the same will happen if I don’t figure out the problem now. Any suggestions where to start?
Hey JR,
I’ve been fortunate enough not to have run into this type of RV water pump issue. My ‘issues’ always have been solved by replacing the pump with a new one.
I’d start by doing a Google search for the term “rv water pump air leak”. There appears to be some good info using that search term, including some YouTube videos. I’m guessing one could go down quite the rabbit hole here, but I’m also sure you’ll come up with some ideas on how to tackle this problem.
Best of luck and Camp On!
Do you have any suggestions for a pump based on their decibel levels?
Thanks
Jim
Hi Jim,
The quietest water pump is going to be the Remco Aquajet, which is a variable speed pump. The other pumps are either on (full speed ahead!) or off – they don’t have the ability to ‘be quiet’. The Aquajet’s variable speed means that at lower flow rates, it’s just ‘ticking over’ and can be quieter.
Keep in mind all water pumps are going to make some sort of sound. Depending on the location of the actual pump, you will either be annoyed by the sound, or it will just be a background noise. Camp Addict Kelly’s pump is under her bed and isn’t horrible to listen to, even though it is an on-off style pump. Camp Addict Marshall’s pump is under his kitchen sink and very obnoxious. It’s all about location, location, location. ?
Thanks for the question Jim, and Camp On!
Great web site with lots of useful info. Will definitely use your affiliate links to shop. I do have a question. I am considering a variable speed pump. In your review, you stated “DO NOT use an accumulator tank with a Remco Aquajet RV water pump. The variable speed design means an accumulator is not necessary, and using one will actually cause the Aquajet to not function properly.” I understand why a tank might not be necessary, but I didn’t see anything about causing a variable speed pump to malfunction on Remco’s site, nor any of the other manufacturers of variable speed pumps. Can you please point me to the source of this warning?
Thanks!
Pete
Thanks for the kind words, Pete!
In the following video meant for their dealers, you will notice they not only mention that an accumulator isn’t necessary, but to bypass an existing accumulator (do not use it): https://youtu.be/IbE6bWO5370
They should definitely make this more clear. Like putting it in their installation manual. Things that make you go hmmmm…
Camp On!